Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've just been looking around the Ford web-site and didn't come up with much.

I'm looking for the following figures: XR6 RWKW, XR6T RWKW and XR8 RWKW.

I know a few of you drive them. Then again, my old man has one and doesn't know. His guess is around 180 KW at the fly for the XR6.

Out of interest, I also wouldn't mind knowing the Holden figures for the S, SS and... whatever else Holden have.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/46945-ford-power-figures/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 60
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Barra 182 - XT, XR6, Futura, Fairmont, Fairmont Ghia

182kw @ 5000rpm

380Nm @ 3250rpm

CR - 9.7:1

Barra 240T - XR6 TURBO

240kw @ 5250rpm

450Nm @ 2000 to 4500rpm

CR - 8.7:1

Barra 220 - XT Sedan (optional), Fairmont (optional), Fairmont Ghia (optional)

220kw @ 4750rpm

470Nm @ 3250rpm

CR - 9.7:1

Boss 260 - XR8

260kw @ 5250rpm

500Nm @ 4250rpm

CR - 9.5:1

you beat me to it

That web-site is good.

Is there any sort of standard way to convert between factory power figures and actual RWKW? How accurate are factory figures?

Not really, RWKW is after drivetrain losses, and the drivetrain losses are different with each car

Roughly (I have noticed anyway) flywheel KW ~ rear wheel hp

the fords XR6T and XR8 will have around the 160-180rwkw stock ..... they r similar power figures to the holden GEN3 (LS1)..... alothough the fords r ALOT slower, they weigh about 200kg more than holdens similar make....

XR6-100-120 rwkw

s(ecotec 3.8l) 100-110rwkw

ss(gen3) 160-190rwkw

HSV-GTS,clubsport, senator,grange 180-230rwkw (heavy car tho)

ATM go XR6T they r easy to get power from and r pretty reliable, but if u want that V8 sound go gen3 with just bolt on mods the boys at (www.ls1.com.au) r running low 12's.......... and 11's with a stock bottom end.....gen3 can have a piston slap problem so make sure u suss it out b4......

if u go the boss XR8 engine u just wasted $60,000, u need to take the engine out to put extractors on and if u drop a spanner in there u won;t get it back out....

dunno if it helps, but a mate has an XR6T with a few mods (exhaust and boost), and it dyno'd 331rwhp

dude u get ur facts correct b4 u make statments like all XR6T beating SS? if u want to go to stock performace just open ur "MOTOR" magazine and c.....

ur right with the xr6 4.0 and ecotec 3.8 s ....... the ford will win... not by much

331rwhp XR6T not a good effort.... .....did u visit the website i put in the post (www.ls1.com.au)......

bolt on mods inc edit

twin 2.5" zorst wit extractors

Mafless edit

2500rpm stally

CAI

i don't think i am missing anything

will comfortably c 230-260rwkw..... wack a set of semi slicks on it and will c a low to mid 12 second pass..... for wat $2000-4000

do a bit of head and cam work and u will be seeing low 11's

the XR6 turbo is a awesome car and like APS demonstrate they r very quick but u can't compare the difference between kw per dollar...... and m8 wat u c on the street (assuming) really don't mean shiat........i am just learning about skylines (because i think there great cars).... but don't blab on about stuff u don't know or r not sure of........

if ur still a bit unsure have a look at these threads where they compare the two cars from both perspectives down the track

http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php...&highlight=mods

http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/index.ph...opic=10267&st=0

Well for with mild mods the aps phase III xr6t has run a 10.98 and is street legal. This package I think costs around $8000 and the the cars intial price tag is only around $45000, so in my opionion mildly modded fords are winning the battle at the moment.

i c ur point and i spose ur right althouh the genx kit for the gen3 (supercharger) costs $4500 and with a bit of tuning u will be running a high 10.... but if i was to spend that money on a new car atm it would be a xr6t .... it would be a much nicer car to drive to i think.... but u still can't beat that v8 sound...

i agree and i think ford r wining atm and with the arrival of the typhoon they will jump even more ahead .... but u just wait

i will let u on a bit of an insight

the coupe4 (awd v8) comes out next month... this kicks off the holden awd

then late this year the VZ HSV's come out with a 6.2L gen4 350kw (not confirmed yet) then not long after that there will be AWD 350kw HSV's, even the ss(6.0l gen4) get the AWD.... so there will top Aussie beasts running around town..... and then u have the fools that will wack the fatest supercharger onto the side and will probably see a easy 9 second pass......and hopefully have the handling of a GTR :flamed:

cant remember which mag i read it in, either motor or wheels, but the XR6T had the acceleration advantage, but i this was when it was first released, holden have upped their power a bit since then hey?

is the coupe4 coming out in both auto and manual, i heard they were only doing an auto?

cant remember which mag i read it in, either motor or wheels, but the XR6T had the acceleration advantage, but i this was when it was first released, holden have upped their power a bit since then hey?

is the coupe4 coming out in both auto and manual, i heard they were only doing an auto?

the coupe 4 is only comming out in auto only..... this months wheels have got there hands on 1 and have an article on how it goes.....

by the time the HSV's get the gen4 and the awd there should(most likley) b a manual option.... and there will be a 5 speed auto comming out in the next model "VZ" comes out soon.....

ohhh and my quote "9 second pass" .....

i don't think it will be easy..... i think there will be "alot" of drivetrain and weigh problems.....

and speak of the devil my dad just said tonight he is keen on getting a XR6T..... i will have to line it up against my senator :).... i don;t think i will try and convince him to go holden as the new V8's r wat detered me from getting a new one and hence why i went the old skewl 5.7L.... i think my next car will b a GTR R33 :wassup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...