Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Fuel resistant sealant/adhesive

Hi all,

I am modifying a pod filter [for another application, not my Skyline, and wanted to tap into your collective conscience......:)

I have done an angle cut on the pod filter gauze/mesh and then shaped a piece of alloy to glue over that cut.  The sealant needs to be fuel mist or drip resistant [so anything silicone is out] and bead in application, I can't use it if its too runny.  I am doing this to get the pod to fit in the space I have available to me, a whole pod won't fit.

I contacted both Sika and fixtech, and although they both have products that will do the job [Tank N and FM30 respectively] the cost is way over the top for what I want to do.  I am looking at over $200 for one tube of FM30 alone.  And I am struggling to find a supplier of Tank N on the net that doesn't want to sell me a box of 6 x 600g at around $400, this also indicates that one tube will be still very expensive.  I estimate I will need maybe 200g.

Generally polyurethane sealants are around the $30 mark for a 400g cartridge, but remember I will need one that is fuel mist resistant [its not washing in the stuff].

Also I have done all my 'shopping' online..........so if it didn't come up in a search then I don't know about it.

So what have you ever used?  What else is out there? Where did you use it? and lastly, how good was it?

Thanks in advance.

 

 

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469468-fuel-resistant-sealantadhesive/
Share on other sites

Very helpful.....no, actually I am surprised you didn't say Tek screws....lol

 

Actually, I am wondering if the answer is closer than I think.....Selleys All Clear is a Co Polymer and once set [but it never sets brittle or hard],  seems unaffected by fuel and thinners.  I know you can't get it off without some serious elbow work and that's only for light smears.  Anyway its only $15 a cartridge so much more realistically priced as well, and I use it all the time.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks MBS206, i got that PDF but got abit overhelm with all the connections and tracing of wires. I wasn't expecting to plug the dash harness anywhere. i was just going to use my electronics jumper wires to plug into the right pins like ECU power, ecu ground, ignition trigger etc... I do have a few ratchet straps locking it down tight. Fire extinguisher ready and only a small amount of fuel at a time, enough to submerge the pump.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, i will do abit more digging. I am missing a blue relay near the ECU connector... so i will chase that up in the next few days as well  
    • https://yariksteel.ru/manual/R33/Skyline_R33_elektroprovodka.pdf   Page 18 should be what you want for the Dash Cluster wiring. Though, you don't need the dash plugged in to get the motor running. What you want is power as how GTSBoy said. You need to power the ECU. Find in the above link the ECU pin outs (Verify them before just connecting them up from things written on the internet). Find anything needing power, give it power, find anything needing ground, give it ground. Then give the starter motor power through a big cable, and bridge the solenoid on the starter straight to power too.  ECU will be on, and when you give the starter power, it'll spin the starter motor, and it should start. I also hope you have a proper stand, and not just the engine sitting on some wood. You will want it bolted down properly.
    • Hello everyone, I am happy to join you.
    • Whereabouts are you, that looks exactly like Akira's old car....
×
×
  • Create New...