Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

4wd abs light on

Hey guys need some help with my stagea rs 4 1996.

i have both 4wd and abs lights on the codes im getting from the led off the Ecu is 61 & 63. I have found a basic wiring diagram and in this I can see 5 relays.

so I've traced them to 2 on the abs pump it's self one in the main fuse box near the battery and one up by the strut tower. Where are the other 2 located. 

could anybody shed any light on to this fault as I'm tearing my hair out now. Checked all around the wiring all checks out ok.  Just need to find these other relays to see if that where the fault is.

any help would be great.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/471621-4wd-abs-light-on/
Share on other sites

I thought the ABS pump relays were actually part of the ABS pump assembly itself. Have you checked the plugs that go into that assembly?

If it is similar to R34 there will be two thick supply wires, and the trigger to switch the relays is in one of the other plugs. Wiring diagram have a plug pinout?

No the wiring diagram I have is very basic so no plug pinout. 

The relays on the abs pump are a pair soldered onto a circuit board bolted on to the side. 

I'm getting 12volts to the relays on the side of the abs pump also pump primes up when you put the ignition on like that circuit is working. 

Edited by Bigbeno

See if you can check that both relays on the ABS unit are clicking on. If same as R33/R34 the ABS light is turned off by the ABS actuator relay turning ON. The relays on the ABS unit are ABS pump and ABS actuator (supply for solenoids).

Re: the other relay you can't find, it is probably in the rear of the car somewhere, it is the ATTESA ets actuator relay, in R34 it is in the boot near the driver side tail light next to other relays. ATTESA ets pump relay is the one near driver strut tower.

Thanks for getting back to me pal. Im pretty sure that both the relays on the abs pump are clicking. 

 

Ive got the whole interior out of the rear and I can't find the relay.

i found a basic diagramme that shown the relays in the rear but I think that's for the skylines. 

all three lights come on with the ignition when you start it they all go off for a second then the 4wd and abs light come back on. 

Somebody must know where the last relay is.

Yes g sensor is all connected all ok. 

All my info has either come from this site or google. 

I can see that fault codes 61 & 63 are different on the different version of attesa I believe that on the skyline 61 or 63 points to g sensor.

this is why I registered on here to make sure I'm looking at the correct info. They don't make this car over here in the uk so no body really know anything about them to help me.

Ok then. Perhaps start checking your earths are all secure, especially around the abs actuator and g-sensor, you sound like you know what you are doing.

So did the lights just come on one day? How did it start?

May need to clear the error history once you check a few things too, i know my attesa ecu would hold on to some error codes after some problems were fixed, had to reset to clear them.

They all look good but I'm back on it tomorrow got an early finish tomorrow so will double check, There's some proper rotten 10mm bolts behind both the headlights but I've had the meter on them and there earthing. But I would think there earth points for either headlights or engine  loom. 

I've not been near the car since sat night so the battery is disconnected hoping it will clear the codes in the Ecu. I have seen about the grounding of the consult pin but I didn't want to do that in case the info was incorrect for the model and end up smoking something. 

Is this something else I should be doing rather than a battery disconnecting? 

What I did find the relay by the strut top the connections were a bit poor. So I tweaked the terminal then I found the relay was a little intermittent. Temporally wired in a standed relay as the Nissan ones are all a stupid shape. But all still the same. That stopped the random clicking. Even after Ecu reset only for 10 mins at a time with the battery disconnect. 

Also ive put a test light in the main attesa pump wire so I can see when the signal is going to pump. 

I'm not sure how they came on or when it's a good friend of mines car and I'm a retired mechanic well full time anyway. He's taken it to a few garages and they have no look and cos the abs light is on mot is coming up so I said I would see what I could do. 

Maybe other thing to mention is the centre diff s button doesn't do anything but the light goes off once you start the car up. The switch is swtiching but I'm thinking that isn't working due to the attesa fault. 

My friend also said he though it was stuck in rwd but I noticed once I disconnected some loop connection by the reservoir This makes the systems work and then when you drive it it all feels locked up and you get wind up in the diff. So the 4wheel drive mechanical side is working. But once the residual drop from the hydraulics up turn free again. 

Thanks for your input on this phill ?

No problems.

The loop wire connection is used to put the system in a mode to bleed air from the hydraulic line, there is a bleeder on the back of the gearbox. Also one on the bottom of the attesa pump which just gravity feeds. My hydraulic oil was like grease, thick and gross. If you drive with the wire loop disconnected it should register as a fault code too.

I think there should be a big earth straight off the ABS actuator id check that first.

If that fails, perhaps you could pull the plug with the two thick wites from the ABS actuator, then check diagnostic lights again. If you have the same codes as before then 61 & 63 mean the ABS actuator unit. If new codes, then 61 & 63 are g sensor related.

I thought that would be the case, but I didn't use that one I used the one I found on google to bleed it up by the fuse board up by the pedals. Worked no problem. 

Thats a good idea I'll try that tomorrow. I did try unplugging a few of the wheel sensors and the g sensor to try and get the Ecu to read different flashes but no joy there still reads the same two. So sort of lead me to believe that it's more the relay circuit than the g sensor. But as can't be 100% sure I'm chasing the correct fault code. 

Also to find the final relay in the circuit would be a bonus 

 

 

Update

battery been disconnected since last Friday put back on checked the fault codes still showing 61 63.

do I need to clear code via the earth pins on the dignostic socket?

ok so I've been around the earths at the abs pump. It earths from the pump it's self and it's only a small wire down to the inner wing via a rusty bolt. Getting good continuity to earth. Thought I would take it out and give it a clean checked the resistance that's all good. Still got the lights. Main fat wires are to the relay pack white and white with a red stop 

So I unplugged the relays from the abs and now I'm only getting code 63. But if I unplug the abs sensors or the g sensors the fault will not change from 63

Im starting to think this is not going to be a wiring problem an all the terminals look mint no sign of corrosion. So it must be a component causing issues 

What I also noticed today since it's not run since Friday my test light is still in the pump circuit line and the pressure from the attessa pump would have dropped over the last few days. 

Once you start the car the test light will light up and all the lights go off. 2 seconds later the abs and 4wd light will come back on. The test light and my home made relay stay active for 10-15 seconds once up to pressure the light goes out relay click off. 

I'm thinking I need a pair of these abs relays or the pump even thou that primes up when you start it, but is that priming for 2 seconds faulting then bringing the lights on and the attesa carrys on with its self checks and all that side checks out, 

I've opend the box for the valves but I'm sure what I'm looking at in there. Continuity check it and they all beep off every pin to each other like its all fuse together and every pin in the connector is connected to each other. 

I don't know my head is melted with this thing.

time for a large beer. 

 

  

Oh you did say, 96.

It only has 4 relays. You shouldn't have a wire in pin 4 of consult plug, and codes 61 and 63 are G sensor related.

Do you want me to send you a pic of the wiring diagram? In Japanese, but if you compare to the English R34 supplement pdf you can figure it out. Looks like pins 6 and 8 of the g-sensor also goes to ground, wonder where that ground is attached.

Actually no I read that wrong, 6 & 8 on the g sensor plug are shields for the other wires, and looks like they are grounded in the g sensor unit, probably through the case.

More important to check the 8v lines, and that the return signals are within spec.

Sweet mate I'll check that pin in the consolt port and maybe get a couple of them relays and a g sensor from somewhere and report back

all wiring cuircuits seems to be good so far. Could do with getting this thing off me drive it's like have a bus parked outside. 

  • 1 month later...
  • 4 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
    • Sorry, just assumed that talk of coloured pads meant EBC red/green/yellow/shit stuff. I don't know the DBA pads, but it's a reasonable bet that they will be OK. DBA make good stuff generally. Those 4000 series rotors I linked to are very good. I may well replace the RDA rotors I have with those when required.
    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
×
×
  • Create New...