Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1998 manual r34 gtt 324kw

Hey guys.

ive been thinking about selling my r34 gtt so this is more of an expression of interest but if the right price is offered then we can come to an agreement.
the car has been my daily driver for the past 4 years and has been garaged warmed up and maintained as much as possible. regular services done at 5k intervals and 1 major service during my ownership. the car has been resprayed by previous owner and was close to stock with only an exhaust and a nismo 1.5 way diff.

currently the car has 224,xxx km on the clock and is mostly highway kms (engine and chassis) but is running perfectly fine can and will provide compression test if desired.
since owning i have done several mods to it and its become a fun daily driver and as a bit more potential if desired. it also has a brand new battery the timing belt waterpump and oil pump were all replaced at 200k km with the transmission oil and dif.

the interior is clean and tidy with no stains in the seats only has 1 light tear in the rear seat, has factory floor mats that are a little worn in the drivers side and being a non smoker there is no smoke smell. steering wheel is showing its age but its nothing serious.

currently the car as is has the following extras:
walbro 460lph fuel pump
splitfire coilpacks
tomei poncams type b
bosch 100amp alternator
ev14 725cc injectors
 turbosmart hypergate 45mm external wastegate
apexi avcr boost controller
plazmaman intercooler with cusom pipework (done by havoc fab)
hypergear atr43ss2 turbo (2014 model and journal bearing)
nistune with flex fuel
z32 afm
full custom turbo back 3.5" ss exhaust with magnaflow highflow cat (done by havoc fab)
custom external wastegate off turbo manifold (done by havoc fab)
BC coilovers
npc 10" sprung button clutch with lighten flywheel
nismo 1.5 diff
hicas lockout bar
z-tune front bar, side skirts and rear pods
work xd9 18x9 +30(front) 18x10 +38 (rear)
nismo clear indicators front and side
boost, oil temp, water temp gauges
pioneer headunit with front and rear, speakers, amp and 12" sub
 

car makes 286kw on pump fuel at 18psi and 324kw on e70 at 18 psi. due to maxing out injectors we did not get a full e85 tune and could not use more boost. car was tuned by trent at chequred tuning. its been running on this tune for the past 3 years and never had any mechanical issues. so with larger injectors and a full e85 tune could see much more.

cons: paint has seen better days, theres a few minor surface rust spots and theres a bit of rust near the boot brake light as well as stone chips on the front bumper. as well as the engine is getting older so it may be a put off for some people but it is not showing signs of age. there are also a few tiny dents.

as stated its currently only expression of interest so not in a rush to sell it. will come with RWC and rego till sept and a whole year from then. also have a few spare parts that will come with the car for free including, 4 standard wheels and tyres (varying wear on tread) standard gauge cluster, standard rear pods, standard replacement clutch. and a full set of brand new tyres on the work wheels.
probably forgotten a thing or two but thats most of it. car needs tyres and to fix the hicas light before passing rwc but will sort that out.

reason for expression of sale is. i had built a 900hp built 25/30 literally ready to go into it but someone offered me a price for the engine package and then i lost interest in the car and now would like something cheaper to run.

no test drives (without deposit), tyre kickers or time wasters.

looking for $16,500 ono

any questions contact me on 0431394082 via text, i work allot so wont always be able to answer calls or post on here
located in Geelong

cheers

 

1476197_10205541764878515_7018753499847903268_n.jpg

10404888_10205458853085772_7176397538981841118_n.jpg

10986930_10205458853725788_617916807617516459_n.jpg

11073400_10205431341638003_5093235743001205288_n.jpg

11232987_10206226370753234_2068878882568438886_n.jpg

12373376_10207210467355034_3220218803557256955_n.jpg

12705485_10207542072884965_5449384199185666417_n.jpg

13350513_10208430254368947_5448720572425969121_o.jpg

15589552_10210062920144571_8491232080019301309_n.jpg

20800357_10212196589964983_7807262142504128114_n.jpg

20800363_10212196589444970_8282606850089711775_n.jpg

20840767_10212196589604974_7157354125008182062_n.jpg

20841192_10212196590965008_7139658683959250217_n.jpg

20842236_10212196582284791_6669935866124334692_n.jpg

20882224_10212196590404994_4070135014533493425_n.jpg

20915514_10212196588924957_2676809209757116301_n.jpg

12191512_10206961297645947_7006859993416723561_n.jpg

20901604_10212196685527372_6336760540821617659_o.jpg

  • Like 3
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/471681-1998-manual-r34-gtt-324kw/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As I've said elsewhere, I am using the stock intercooler piping path in the engine bay, and a return flow cooler, and making ~250 rwkW (without any effort put into trying to turn it up past there just yet) and expect to be able to make some more, and frankly, I would be perfectly happy with 260-270rwKW. This is peak road Skyline usability territory. You go past there and, sure, the car will snap necks more when it's on boost, but it will also break shit all the time, cost a (even larger) fortune in tyres, etc etc. Anyway, I also do not like the over-the-fan pipe path, and you don't have to do it.
    • I see, honestly I’m not too fussed about the looks. The only reason to go plenum is to make the piping easier instead of the classic over the rad etc. 
    • Not easy to quantify wrt something like how many fractions of a second slower it would be over 0-100. But given that a 250-300rwkW car is able to do that launch sprint in 5-6 sec (and faster with appropriate tyres, and surface)..... giving up as much as a second would feel like torture. A ~450HP capable turbo is not going to make lots of boost in the 2000-3000 rpm range. So, whilst with some boost on hand it will be faster accelerating in that rev range than your engine currently is NA, it will not feel like a fast car until the boost is solidly in. You know what your car feels like right now when you open it up at 2000rpm. if you've ever been in an actual fast car, you will appreciate that the NARB25 is.... not exciting. Well, add some boost and it will be better. But shorten the intake runners and it might not be better at all. It might come out better, but it could end up feeling the same. For me, it's not the 0-X km/h sprints that matter. It is easy to fry the tyres with anything over 200 rwkW. You can't use all the power available in 1st and 2nd anyway, you have to modulate the throttle. What matters is how the car reacts when you're driving in traffic in 4th or 5th and have maybe 2000 rpm on board, and you want/need to add some speed quickly, and don't have time for the downshift. It won't make boost, it will be all NA (at the speeds we're talking about - remember how fast you're going at 2000 in 4th! and don't plan on breaking the limit by too much.) So giving away NA torque is not what I would consider practical for a street car. And retaining that NA torque builds boost faster which makes the car faster. The flashy plenum is not actually better, unless you're looking at a track car where you can keep it on the boil all the time.  
    • So how much difference does it make you think? Like 1 second in the 0-100?  I was have smaller turbo so hopefully that spools quick GTX2871.  currently it’s NA so you can imagine pretty slow, but I do want fast accusation a little as there’s not many places I’ll be driving where I go over 80 even near me. So 0-60 and 0-80 targets   
    • Short inlet runners cost quite a bit. Dulls off the off-boost torque, and delays boost onset, because arrival of boost is driven by gas flow is a product of the ability to flow air which is torque. This is the reason that the stock manifolds have longer runners. On a 3L, or bigger, you can usually accept the compromise of giving away some torque because the extra capacity gives you a little extra to waste. But on a smaller motor, there's not a lot there to start with. Example, I swapped RB20 out of my R32, 25NeoDET in its place. The "wall of torque" that I experienced afterwards made it all worthwhile. That's because I came from RB20 land where torque is not a thing. But I would not do anything, anything at all, to reduce the low/mid torque I have now, because I remember what it is like to not have it!
×
×
  • Create New...