Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got sick of the wife complaining about brakes shuddering on our 02 M35 ARX. Kept on replacing the rotors but they only lasted a short while before warping again.

Bought some R34GTT front calipers and found that they bolt on but the standard ARX 18's don't fit over them. Went looking for rims in Perth and found a set of 18's off a wrecked 370z. The seller persuaded me to buy the matching Akebono brakes as well...

The car needed suspension as well as the shocks were stuffed. Ordered a kit of KYB Lowfer springs and shocks from RHD Japan... Had to be made to order so took a month or two to arrive.

Front lower ball joints were stuffed too so ordered those in off ebay. So much for a simple brake job!

A cordless rattle gun made taking the suspension apart really easy. It all came off without any problems and the kyb kit fitted perfectly. The nasty bit is using coil spring compressors but other than that it all goes together just fine. The rear suspension is pretty quick to replace and you can do both sides in half an hour. Fronts take a bit longer as there's more to unbolt. You can do it without removing the steering knuckle with a bit of wiggling, easier when you take it out.

The ball joints were a pain and i took them to a suspension shop to press the old ones out and new ones in.

The front Akebonos need adaptors to mount- same as the 350z ones and easily available from the US. You can use the 370 front lines from the caliper back to the connection on the inner wheel well with a little bending of the hard line. If you use the Stagea line you need to remove the brass fitting in the banjo hole in the caliper. A sharp screw screwed in then you can pull it out. I didn't do this on my fronts but did on the backs as the lines are too different.

You have to remove the backing plates back and front. Either cut them with tin snips etc or unbolt the bearings and take them off.

The rear Akebono calipers bolt straight up which makes life easy!

Just for comparison, the discs i took off weigh 6.5kg each. The new 370z ones weigh 13kg each! The new calipers are a bit lighter as they are aluminium instead of cast iron.

Once finished the new springs dropped my ARX around 4cm so looks normal now!

Brakes work really well, as they should! I don't think you need to change the master cylinder like i was advised as the pedal has plenty of feel and not too much travel.

The other thing i had to do was roll and flarethe rear guards as the fat rear tyres and extra offset of the 370z rear wheels made them rub badly. The boys at DIY Garage in Malaga (WA) came to the rescue and sorted them. I trimmed the plastic ARX flares to suit. Overall i love the look but wonder how long the rear tyres will last with quite a bit of neg camber on them...

Have a bunch of photos, just need to work out how to get them on from my phone...

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...