Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Gearbox RP71C #2


Recommended Posts

Hey all

So i recently bought a R34, originally it was a auto and the previous owner has done a manual conversion on it, drives around fine and what not. But it has come to my attention that the gearbox used is one out of a VL commodore ,well i think it is if someone can confirm the origin of the gearbox it would be appreciated (yes i checked previous threads from years ago but there was nothing confirming it). Also is it worth finding a proper R34 manual gearbox and swapping it out to future proof it ?

Gearbox Details

  • Has casted the following code - RP71C #2
  • 5 speed manual

only half decent photo of majority of the gearbox i have on hand at the moment

20206092_1874834712768533_2074194155_n.jpg.d8f62cd69508735a331b1de949ba62bb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

Hemal, I’m in the exact same boat mate. I’ve tried researching it and have found that it’s fitted in r31,r32, r33, a31, z31. Not sure how true this is though as it seems anyone who has been asked this question all have different answers. I know it not much help but hopefully someone can clarify this for us. 
 

On another note I’m assuming your trans crossmember doesn’t bolt up properly. Only two bolts where holding my up. I decided to cut and re-weld my. Here are some pictures of how it turned out if you where wondering. Hopefully this helps someone out there 

C88434AF-5369-47CC-B70B-962350E55906.jpeg

4A27DF7B-DDA1-4C59-9193-062B097C92FE.jpeg

157E55BD-6C93-4E34-8F38-059FA1681D9A.jpeg

7E013CB0-3C33-43BC-99B0-BF4051295945.jpeg

12435597-735A-4BF8-8DF7-E3EFD2CDA872.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's easy to tell. The RB20DEt box is literally half the size of the RB25 and VLT gearbox. The 25DET and VLT box are almost the same thing, but I think the code on the VLT box was MX7.

And there's no need to go cutting and shutting the gearbox crossmember. There are 3 (actually 4) labelled A, B & C that all align differently and allow you to put pretty much any box in any chassis, for the most part, so long as you get the right one.

And last tip. Don't turn the boost up on the R34. It will wear the little box out quite quickly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Doing it this weekend. For sure this time. Thank you forum gods.  And im running map sensor now with the haltech. Still have the AFMs attached to the mushroom dome shaped air filter things
    • Actually, it is probably pretty legit. I mean, it's still woke feminazi bullshit academia, but you would have to agree that it is very likely that there would be a correlation between wanting a loud exhaust and scoring at the unpleasant end of the scales for dark triad personality traits. The fact that they found it didn't correlate with narcissism and only with psychopathy and sadism definitely shows that the loud exhaust thing is more of a "f**k you" than a "look at me", and I reckon that rings pretty close to most of the dickheads who take it to the extreme. Remember, this is correlation with tendency to be closer to one end of a personality trait scale than the other end. Of course someone who is at the literal opposite end of the psychopathy scale is going to be so considerate of others that they wouldn't even think about wanting to upset anyone with a loud exhaust. So the finding isn't that "you are a psychopath". Just that you score more towards that end of the scale than someone who doesn't like loud exhausts (on average, not necessarily even for specific individuals).
    • Blitz ER34 at some point hopefully, should be allowed in Gr3 if they do.
    • Stock R33 boost control, with the exhaust, and FMIC done, will boost creep. There is no tuning around it if it is the factory boost solenoid.   If it has an aftermarket electronic boost controller, the settings/mapping can be altered in it.   Oil could be anything as mentioned, however did it ever do it before you did the turbo swap? How much and how often did you drive the car before the swap?   I'm hinging on too much oil supply, or it's not draining properly.   To check, pull the air outlet off the turbo. Is it full of oil? Drop the exhaust at the turbo, does it appears to be oiled/coked? Now pull turbo and check the exhaust manifold, does it appears oiled and coked the same way?   Secondly, the PCV could even be stuffed / not functioning properly and will cause blowing of blue smoke.
×
×
  • Create New...