Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys who have done this before, what do u do??

If when running a Power FC u hit the 5.1volt AFM max reading??

DO u replace it with a Z32 or what??

When does it hit 5.1 volts? And does it stay there for long?

Hitting 5.1 volts at 7,000 rpm is not a big problem, while hitting it at 4,000 rpm and it staying there all the way to 7,500 rpm is a big problem. :(

yeap swap to z32 and it will give you more headroom

if you max out the afm near the very top say for example 6500rpm, then you can tune the 5v signal to be spot on for 7500, and just have a rich spot from 6500 to around 7400

just to avoid a lean mixture and detonation up top

i personally would just get bigger afm though

It doesn't matter what the signal says...

Power FC uses Load vs. RPM on the map, when the AFM is maxed out the load value will not increase but the rpm will be mapped out to 9,200rpm or whatever so you can still tune it properly. No need to richen it up more than usual.

I can't think of many situations where you would use part throttle at 7,000rpm+ and even if the actual load was lower than the real load you would be putting in more fuel anyway so effectively it would go rich because it was pumping in fuel as if it was at WOT until the AFM starts to read real values again.

I go through 7,000 rpm a lot of times when not on full throttle, everytime I change gear for a start. Then driving though corners holding it on the throttle, not the best time for a cough. GTST's don't have inlet air temp compensation, so my best friend when it gets very hot or very cold is the AFM. The inlet air temp change alters the AFM readings, as it measures the air flow and therefore the air density.

Personally, if it hits max voltage at 4,500 rpm, then I reckon it's time for a Z32 AFM. :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...