Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1. Just to confirm, PFCs are defectable (in South Australia), correct?

2. Assuming they are, how difficult/expensive are PFCs to remove when you cop a defect? Can you put the standard ECU back in ten minutes, or do you have to re-tune the stock ECU and then re-tune the PFC the day after as well?

3. How does the revolution limiter/lock work? I know you can lock your revs to a certain RPM, but how exactly do you do it? Is it a thirty second task? Is it equally as easy to undo? If it is, what stops your mechanic etc from taking it off? Are they commonly used as a secondary method of theft provention?

4. Where is the cheapest place to buy a PFC with hand controller?

5. Do I even need the hand controller? Is the hand controller useful for an average person, or would I need mechanical knowledge to benefit from having it?

5. How much extra is the boost controller thingo and is it better than the AVCR or other cheaper alternatives?

6. I've heard rumours regarding a new model being released soon, complete with hand controller at a lower price point than what they're currently selling at. Can any of you confirm this?

TIA for your answers.

1. not sure, i'd say so.

2. yes, just bang the standard one back in and drive away. depending on mods of coures, bigger injectors or turbo and you wouldnt do it. The powerfc holds the tune for along time.

3. rev limiter is a fuel cut in the L-jetro version (the common one everyones got)

4. www.nengun.com - excellent price and service in my experience of late. ive spent many dollars with him.

5. not really, i dont have one. detonation registers on your check engine light when the pfc reads a knock of 60+. i dont think you'd need huge mechanical knowledge to understand it tho, it is very useful for realtime monitoring.

6. this is true and is current. apexi only sell packages and at a pretty cheap price too. check out nengun.

-rb25

Echoing, most of rb25's comments, but here we go anyway :P

1. Dunno. Probably.

2. Yep, as long as the engine is close enough to stock you should be right

3. You just go through the menus on the hand controller, pick rev limit, then press up or down until you see the number you want. It's a bit tedious if you're making big changes (10rpm at a time!) but can be useful. You can set the rev limit lower than your idle, just to confuse it, or if you need to give your car to a panel beater or a mechanic, drop the limit to something LOW. I set mine to 1800rpm last time, and took the hand controller with me so they couldn't change it back.

4. Dunno. I got mine from someone on these forums :)

5. No you don't NEED one, but it's well worth getting it for the monitoring what the engine is doing, and for making the occasional small change (like the rev limit)

5 (2nd one :)). From what I hear it retails for something like $800. I have no idea how it compares to other similar devices, but the fact it interfaces with the PFC can't be a bad thing.

6. Wouldn't have a clue :)

Defectable,

5 minute removal and fitting of the standard ecu. Only problem you will have is if you have changed things like the Airflow meter etc.... Then, you obviously cant run the standard ECU.

With the hand controller you are able to monitor temp, timing, injector etc etc....

Boost limiter is easy to set.. only takes about 30 seconds.. and you dont really need the hand controller.

1) yes defectable

2) easy to take out but if u are running bigger injectors possible z32 afm ya car wont run at all

3) choose ya rev limit and away ya go...need commander for that (hand controller)

4) i just bought full kit for 1240 for my 180...there ppl selling them for 1130 but u hav to pick them up from customs so hence u would hav to pay 10% gst when picking them up

5) dont need it but better off getting it

6) extra boost controller thingy...450...i choose a avc-r instead cause of more features...also i heard the power fc boost controller solenoid is quite small.

7) yes now apexi are releasing a kit with hand controller due to consumer demand...u can still buy them seperate but works out cheaper when buying together...price look at no. 4

8) just buy one...they are an awsome unit

Power FC boost control kit is same as AVCR, just doesnt have the blue screen comp. Same solenoid, everything same as AVCR....why would they make a different boost control kit for their own ECU?? Gets me confused why ppl think its different. You use the hand controller instead of the blue sceen to monitor and set it up...

if you get an engineers cert for the turbo etc then everything is fine, but as far as i know with ECU it is illegal to have one that is tunable.. but im sure to get the eng cert you would have to pass emissions!

pretty hard to get defected for an ECU, they wont really pull out the kick panel and have a look in there and know the difference between stock and aftermarket!!

So, say I do replace the injectors and turbo...  

When I cop a defect, do the injectors and turbo have to go in order to swap the ECU in order to clear the defect?

:confused:

dont live ur life worrying about getting a defect.

If it happens it happens and you deal with it and then get it ceared and put everything back on again like the rest of of.

Can i get your opinions on this;

Because my car is auto, i decided to just grab an SITC and SAFC2. Now theyve been sitting her for awhile, because i dont plann to put them in and get tuned untill ive upgraded my turbo.

I know i have timing and fuel control with these. But im wondering weather its worth selling them, and buying a wolf3d even tho its going to cost me an extra $700 approx.

Im not aiming high, i want to make approx 230rwkw on a 2530 or hiflow turbo.

Im fairly confident the SAFC2 and SITC will do what i need

Can i get your opinions on this;

Because my car is auto, i decided to just grab an SITC and SAFC2. Now theyve been sitting her for awhile, because i dont plann to put them in and get tuned untill ive upgraded my turbo.

I know i have timing and fuel control with these. But im wondering weather its worth selling them, and buying a wolf3d even tho its going to cost me an extra $700 approx.

Im not aiming high, i want to make approx 230rwkw on a 2530 or hiflow turbo.

Im fairly confident the SAFC2 and SITC will do what i need

knore, I doubt you will make 230rwkw on stock injectors, in which case you'll need aftermarket injectors and an aftermarket ECU to control them, from what I've read the SAFC will freak with bigger injectors.

SAFC shouldn't give a stuff what size injectors you have - if the ECU can drive them, the SAFC can control them. All the SAFC does is modify the AFM signal so that the stock computer opens the injectors for a different amount of time. The flow rate of those injectors shouldn't matter.

SAFC shouldn't give a stuff what size injectors you have - if the ECU can drive them, the SAFC can control them. All the SAFC does is modify the AFM signal so that the stock computer opens the injectors for a different amount of time. The flow rate of those injectors shouldn't matter.
http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...73&postcount=50

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...53&postcount=36

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...