Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey peeps can someone please help

R33 series 2 manual turbo 

Catback exhaust

Spitfire coilpacks

Bigger intercooler

Mushroom pod filter

Hks bov 

I have recently serviced my car changed spark plugs at an 0.8 gap changed oil filter etc.

When changing the plugs the whole valley was flooded with old oil cleaned it out of valley. Cleaned coilpacks with wd40.

 Went to start and wouldn't kick. Ran diagnostic test and was getting error 12 Afm. Went and changed the afm with a spare I had car started straight away. Went for a drive and noticed was running rough then at 4500rpm once the turbo boosted the engine light would flicker on and off and car stalled. 

Got home and decided to change manual boost controller to a Gfb atomic. Once changed still had the issue. Ran error codes and came back as codes 11 and 12. Check hoses for leak and reconnected boost controller and ran diagnostic and read 55.

 

Took for another drive today thinking it would be alright now it will boost to 4500rpm again same problem the engine light comes on stalls after letting off accelerator. 

 

Please help im stumped any ideas 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/475727-stall-issue-please-help/
Share on other sites

I suggest you check the wiring and connector goes to the MAF.

Here is a general video to check voltage and ohms through and across the wiring connector at the MAF. But you need to cross reference it to your Skyline voltage spec when checking voltage while idling. Probably there is a video for Skyline but I do not have it. Hope this helps!

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=a6eaOd3ihiE

I suggest you check the wiring and connector goes to the MAF.
Here is a general video to check voltage and ohms through and across the wiring connector at the MAF. But you need to cross reference it to your Skyline voltage spec when checking voltage while idling. Probably there is a video for Skyline but I do not have it. Hope this helps!

Cheers for that was spot on Maf was completely fried changed it over with a new one and she drives good as new

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
    • Oh, you are right. But, in Australia E10 is based on 91RON fuel and ends up being 94RON. Hence it being the cheaper option for economy cars. The more performance oriented cars go for the 98RON fuel that has no ethanol mixed in. The only step up we have left then at some petrol stations is E85.
    • There is a warning that "this thread is super old" but they ignore that anyway...
    • With 10% Ethanol, we're talking 2-3% fuel consumption difference. The emissions reductions and octane boost in my opinion far outweigh this almost non existent loss.    My tanks sitting at 80%. Luckily that should go down fast as I'm on vacation again for the next two weeks. 
×
×
  • Create New...