Jump to content
SAU Community

Yargh! leaky dash

cul202
 Share

Recommended Posts

cul202 Experienced

cul202

Posted
Posted

Anyone had problems with their (R32) heater box?

I got a rather rude good morning from my car today when it decided to leak a little steam out from under the dash on the passenger side. Went to investigate & found that I could see buggar all but a couple of green drips on the underside of the heater box.

Do you have to take the whole dash out to get to it? How big a job is it? I’m seriously hoping that its just a loose pipe or something to that effect.

Any help/suggestions would be appreciated muchly.

Ben

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/47593-yargh-leaky-dash/
Share on other sites
cul202 Experienced

cul202

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Wow, that’s really quite comprehensive. Can’t believe I didn’t look there in the first place.

Thanks for that.

I don’t really like the part where it says “entire dash & support removal” or “6 – 8 hours work” though :)

Looks like I’ll be by passing it for this evening’s activities. Gotta get to a party in the Northern Beaches & don’t like the idea of catching public transport up there…

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/47593-yargh-leaky-dash/#findComment-961447
Share on other sites
krawler Mentor

krawler

Posted
Posted

If you dont mind doing a temporary dodgy, you can just get a union to suit the size rubber hose that feeds the heater box and "bridge" it out just in front of the firewall.

Usually enough length to pull off the heater box fitting, union together and voila. Hopefully enough length so you dont have to chop anywhere.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/47593-yargh-leaky-dash/#findComment-961595
Share on other sites
predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted

yes, this was me.. there is an uber thread on how to replace it.. pull it apart.. pix, everything.. get reading :)

there is also like krawler is talking about - search 'bypassing heater core' in maintenance.

it will be slightly different for an r32 but i think the same basic principles will apply.

have fun (you won't!) ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/47593-yargh-leaky-dash/#findComment-961687
Share on other sites
cul202 Experienced

cul202

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah, ended up bypassing it a few minutes after seeing the your pictures of the dash out.

Will wait for a free w/e before tackling that one properly. Dashboards, along with things like engines & rear cradles are things that I rather dispise removing & refitting.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/47593-yargh-leaky-dash/#findComment-961838
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Duncan · Posted

      yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Duncan
      NC MX5

      By Duncan · Posted

      Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • jtha7
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • MBS206
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • MBS206
      Lock up the old for sale / wtb threads.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...