Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im looking at buying an after market blow off valve cos i love the sound. Now seeing as the RB26's have 2 from the factory, would one still do the job?

The reason I ask is I have seen an r34 gtr with only one HKS blow off valve:

http://www.xspeed.com.au/ssport/04r34/04r34gtrbov.jpg

Will this be alright with any sort of blow off valve?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4761-aftermarket-bov-for-rb26-help/
Share on other sites

The only one that can stand up to the job (Well there is prob others!)....The Greedy type-R BOV. This puppy is huge! Approx $600

I had 2x Turbosmart's on mine....But I have just put the factory ones back on, as the T/S's vented into the atmo, and made the car run like sh1t! idled like crap, stalled at the lights, fluctuated through gear changes,and ran the car rich/lean!

Factory ones are good for 600 odd horses....No need to change!

Unless you have an after market computer that you can get rid of the AFM's, and run atmo BOV's ....Stick with the factory Pssss makers!

CV

Guest Nismo_Freak

Alrighty ... where to begin! First off that Pshh shhs shsh shh noise you heard was from the valve not opening all the way cause of either two things, a. shifted before acchieving enough boost to open the valve or b. valve is not adjusted properly. Notice the placement of that valve. Its after the intercooler when it changes into a single pipe. Which is an ok place to put it.

Sounds & Quality:

Blitz's unit makes either a quiet Psssssssss or a louder Pssssssss depending on weither or not you used the horn. The Blitz unit as expected is very high quality but not the loudest on earth.

HKS's SSQV unit makes a loud and sharp noise. Its a very good BOV as well. Often alot cheaper than the Blitz units. Only way I can explain it is a loud Chirrr!

HKS's Racing BOV, unit makes different noises depending on boost. It varies from the SSQV to the Blitz unit. Its a high boost only BOV.

GReddy Type-S, if you've seen the fast and the furious thats the BOV noise they used. It sounds similar to a balloon when you let the air out but in a quick burst of sound. Its not ment to run in high boost setups so if you run more than 1 bar get the Type-R.

GReddy Type-R, its the racing BOV used in high boost setups. GReddy recommends that you run around 14.5psi (1 bar) or more to effectively use the valve, it has a hard spring. It makes a sound similar to Type-S but with more of a Psssss noise created by the Blitz. Its a well adapted BOV for high boost.

Apex'i BOV, this is a general BOV. It has good response and sounds pretty boring but it gets the job done effectively. It sounds like the Blitz with is Pssssss but it sounds quiet and it similar to a turbodiesel bus, lory, 18 wheeler, whatever you wanna call it.

Turbo XS BOVs have a hard problem with staying close when at idle, this is due to spring pressures. However Ive known people to use them on 4cyl. without any problems perhaps cause the 4-cyl. doesnt create as much vacuum pressures as the larger 6-cyl. Either way its a cheap and effective BOV if you can get it to work.

When you vent atmosperically you will need to tune out the stumble with the S-AFC. Stumble isnt really pronounced but can be felt shifting at certain RPMs.

the choo choo choo sound you are referring to is air not being released by the BOV due to low boost

instead the air passes back through the turbo, the sound you hear is air being 'chopped' by the turbo blades and exiting through the filter. it has nothing to do with the BOV

my recommendation is HKS SSQ and if you put it on the intercooler pipe after the intercooler core then you will only need 1!

as shown in the pic above?

i've got pod air filters now, and it makes a bit of a PSSH when u boot it but i want it louder. will the HKS SSQ do this for me?

my only prob with the HKS SSQ is its price!...nearly $700 :)

how much horsepower can the SSQ handle?

another question....

on the autospeed website the HKS SSQ valves are $567 for a universal one and $1,095 for a kit for the GTR

it says the kit includes all needed mounting brackets, mounting flanges and piping for each specific application.

is it hard to make up your own adapter, and does it cost much?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...