Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Righto... I pick My RB31DET up in a few days and this is my plan :

Change oil/filter 2-3 times first 5000kms

Main thing is dont over rev for first 500 kms

Put eng under moderate load (ie accelerate from 40 to 80 a few times)

aviod prolonged idle first 100 kms

first 1000kms use any "plain" non friction modified oil

after that change to good oil....

Happy running in :cheers:

Guest Moses

I will be doing this very soon , have been told to keep revs low (less than 4k)

but not to drive like a pu55y as you need to load it up to bed in properly. I wont have any

boost below 4k so I guess I can just keep my foot down and drive normally.

Will only take 1000k's using mineral oil first then semi-synthetic.

Ive got a wolf3D v4, however its been tuning for my 2litre. Do you think i should put the stock computer back in to run it in, or get the wolf tuned to 3500rpm, and then later after its run in tune it properly. Or do you think the wolf at the moment will be fine for running in the moment?

Ive got a wolf3D v4, however its been tuning for my 2litre. Do you think i should put the stock computer back in to run it in, or get the wolf tuned to 3500rpm, and then later after its run in tune it properly. Or do you think the wolf at the moment will be fine for running in the moment?

I'm interested in this as my EMS is tuned for a 300hp RB20 using stock injectors.

so i'm wondering how it will go when i start it up with 700cc injectors

when you start it up with those bigger injectors id say it will hardly run and will be rich as a pig!!! IF it is tuned for 370cc injectors and running the power you say the injectors will be pulsing for a very long time to try and get the fuel through, when you put the bigger ones in the will flow twice as much but still be open for the same time equaling twice as much fuel!!!!

Run them in hard to go hard i say my run in will be on the dyno to ramp ups then a full power run on low boost is my run in process!!!

I would assume the best way to get advice on running in your particular engine is to ask the person who actually built it!

I am not versed in this subject but was told it is something to do with how "loose" it has been built. I would assume that is referring to clearances, so the builder would know best.

But as mentioned above by others, varying load, no high rpm "free revving", no prolonged idling is a good guideline I guess. And obviously using non synthetic oils to begin with.

Not too sure about pulling up hills in tall gears though, might be too much load?

If it was my engine, for peace of mind I would have it done on a dyno. For the amount spent on an engine rebuild a few hundred bucks of dyno time is pittence.

@ R32-GTSTT: I would reccomend using the standard ecu for the run in process.

My best advice would be to swap out all gear that you had, and replace with all std items...ie injectors, afm, etc...then run the std ecu. AFM should be able to keep correct fuelling then.

Saying that mine is being started on a Power FC, then fuelling set up straight away....with a mild tunew for the run in...using all std parts. ie injectors, afm etc...

If you dont have the std gear, make sure you get a tuner to start it and check the mixtures straight away...

a quick note ... Not only big load, but avoid backing off in a hurry. Always slow to build the revs (full throttle, high load) then slow to bring em back down. Dont just jump off the accelerator.

Krawlies Tips For Running In Engines. And hey, if it works on an E5 (possibly the worse engine ever made), its gonna work on an RB :D

My best advice would be to swap out all gear that you had, and replace with all std items...ie injectors, afm, etc...then run the std ecu. AFM should be able to keep correct fuelling then.

Saying that mine is being started on a Power FC, then fuelling set up straight away....with a mild tunew for the run in...using all std parts. ie injectors, afm etc...

If you dont have the std gear, make sure you get a tuner to start it and check the mixtures straight away...

In the event my car starts up, but is too rich... Would it be ok to drive it ~4km to the dyno workshop or not? :D

Heres a slightly off topic query ... How long does it take to be run in on a dyno?

I've heard claims of around 15 minutes to be properly bed in using the slow-power-on, slow-power-off method with a rise of 1k each time (ie: up to 1000rpm, back to idle... up to 2000rpm, back to idle...)

Heres a slightly off topic query ... How long does it take to be run in on a dyno?

I've heard claims of around 15 minutes to be properly bed in using the slow-power-on, slow-power-off method with a rise of 1k each time (ie: up to 1000rpm, back to idle... up to 2000rpm, back to idle...)

Yeah my dyno guy said he can get it run it fairly quick on the dyno.

what is done when it is run in on the dyno? chassis dyno or engine dyno?

is a full power full boost run included?

my dyno shop said they would just chuck the car on the dyno and start ramping it up tuning for full power straight away.. and they've had success at it... but i am VERY uncertain about that method. I'd prefer a nice run in scheme

From what my car will be getting things new except for rods.

Just load it up on the dyno, bed it in and drive away a happy customer

No long running in times or anything like that

This is what will be happening with my car, on advice from Ben@ Racepace, and there is little doubt he knows what he is doing when it comes to this stuff. Certainly take his advice when he gives it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For these last 7 years of ownership, I've always had to use a small scissor jack under one of the front tow hooks to raise the front just enough so my low-profile jack fits under to reach my subframe jack point. I'm beginning to get annoyed of always having to do this. Are there any lower low-profile jacks that fit under the gtr lip on a dropped car?
    • Seat of the pants assessment of the new intake: The car is way less "doughy" when hitting the loud pedal, especially off idle when stopped or in traffic, I did use a cheapo lazer thermal thingo to measure the temp around where the pod filter got its air, it was between 55 - 60°C, in saying this the car was shut off and not moving, so the OEM intake pipe was not supplying any fresh air to where the pod was when the car was at least moving A weird bonus was induction noise on the throttle in the cabin increased a bit,  I was worried that I was actually going to lose some of that induction noise I love so much, outside though, when I got the daughter to do a WOT drive by pass for me, the induction noise has increased alot when on the throttle, not quite ITB doort, but well up there I'm extremely happy with the results and have been exploring the country roads in the region  As for house mods: 1.New front fence is up and is awesome, it really upgraded how the joint looks from the street, and the added security is nice 2. Electricians have replace some interior lights, and with more lighting in the garage, a few new motion detecting lights out the front above the garage, front room, and at the front door, which I have already found heaps helpful coming and going, also now has fancy pants CCTV all round the house The only hold point for power though is the solar and batteries due to supply issues, although this will happen over the next few weeks 3. I have done a heap of landscaping out the front and I'm almost ready to do a new small retaining wall with some nice blocks to replace the brick and cemented in rocks around the raised garden beds cemented in river stone "was the fashion at the time" the house was built. I currently have a pallet of retaining wall blocks and 2 bulka bags of 20mm blue metal to replace the wood chip that is in the raised garden beds around the house 4. I now have 3 big raised garden beds for out the back to grow some vegetables, about 70cm high, 200cm long and 100cm wide 5. My 2 compost bins are already pretty full with brown, green and kitchen waste from the landscaping I'vedone so far, but they will probably take a few months to break down, so anything else that gets chopped, trimmed, and kitchen waste will just start filling the base of the raised garden beds to about 30cm before I start throwing 40cm of good compost, and stuff, for the vegetables to grow in, I'll need a few ton of compost and soil, but the local supplier can sent me bulka bags of the stuff Basically the logs, wood chips and a few strategically placed rocks for drainage, will give the beds some good organic materials down low to break down over time, and they will hold moisture during the warmer months to save the water in my big arse water tank if we don't get alot of rain So, all in all, the car and house mods are going well, and I'm really enjoying being retired, I sleep in too 0700 and slowly plod around inside until I feel like actually doing anything, and only work in the yard for as long as want, which has actually been alot over the last few weeks,  although when you look at it, it seems that not a huge amount of work has been done,  until I look at the before I started the work pics Happy days and good times indeed 
    • hahaha yeah. Plan is to get side skirts and probably just rear pods. But going to do them one-by-one. I've got a set that I really like from RHDJapen, but that one isn't shipped to AU. So need to find someone who can get it for me
×
×
  • Create New...