Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all , I have a 1996 S2 GTS25T which has died after problems I believe with its immobiliser .

I bought this car in about 2008 from the original owner who said it came here a year previously . I think the immobiliser may be a Brant and has the grey numeric key pad with white numbers that glow red . The keypad has often been difficult to operate and worse of late . For a week before the car died it would run ok then develop a brief miss and then start start to run lean . The temp fix was to pull over ignition off and restart . It has now died completely and refuses to start . Cranks fine but does not even try to fire . No red ignition lights .

Usually when the 4 number code was entered I'd get a solid relay click and everything would power up . Now it sometimes gives a near silent click and no ignition lights .

I'd really like to flick this system if only to get the car going again . I think what the installer has done is cut several wires just short of the plug on the back of the ignition switch and run extension wires to whatever relay box they used to immobilise the power systems .

Would I be right in thinking that if I cut and re-join  the factory wiring all should be good ?

Cheers from Adrian .

 

 

1 hour ago, discopotato03 said:

Would I be right in thinking that if I cut and re-join  the factory wiring all should be good ?

Yes, assuming you rejoin the correct wires.

The absolute correct thing to do would have been to do this as soon as you saw that you had a Brandt keypad immobiliser, because they are the biggest stinking pile of shit ever and you should count yourself lucky you haven't been stranded anywhere because of it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...