Electric window

[Steem]

My drivers side window hasn’t worked properly ever since buying the car 2 weeks ago. On the first day I managed to get it working for an hour just by whacking the door, after that it hasn’t worked. I originally thought it was the motor as the relay clicked when operating the buttons however when directly connecting a battery to the motor it works just fine. 
 

when turning the car on ( if window is in the up position) it will automatically retract all the way down. The switch is a bit dodgy as when pushing the button down it doesn’t do the clicky thing, but if doesn’t effect the way the window operates I am fine with leaving it how it is. I am out of ideas and am just wanting to ask before I go buying new parts that might not need replacing. Anyone got any ideas?

[Burger]

Is this a V35 by any chance?

[Steem]

On 15/03/2020 at 7:38 PM, Burger said:

Is this a V35 by any chance?

Probably would of helped if I had stated the model lol. It’s a r33 gts 

[GTSBoy]

Dismantle switch and see what is broken inside it.

By "dismantle switch", I mean pull it out of the door trim and COMPLETELY DISMANTLE the switch. Pull the plastic casing apart and look for dirty/broken/burnt contacts, pivot points, snapped wires or solder joints, etc etc etc.

Beyond that, you are starting to get into the realm of needing to investigate the "amplifiers" that control the motors themselves, because these have electronics inside them, with 30 year old shitty electrolytic capacitors that are approaching or past EOL.

[Steem]

1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

Dismantle switch and see what is broken inside it.

By "dismantle switch", I mean pull it out of the door trim and COMPLETELY DISMANTLE the switch. Pull the plastic casing apart and look for dirty/broken/burnt contacts, pivot points, snapped wires or solder joints, etc etc etc.

Beyond that, you are starting to get into the realm of needing to investigate the "amplifiers" that control the motors themselves, because these have electronics inside them, with 30 year old shitty electrolytic capacitors that are approaching or past EOL.

I have checked the switch and I can’t see any bad solders, just some glue like stuff. Would it still be possible that it’s the switch even the though when activating the button it sends power to the motor?

 

upon further inspection I have discovered that power is constantly going through one the wires while the other one only get power when I activate the button

Edited March 17, 2020 by Steem

[GTSBoy]

Have you taken the switch to pieces? I mean, pry open the plastic clips that hold it together and LOOK ON THE INSIDE?

[Steem]

2 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Have you taken the switch to pieces? I mean, pry open the plastic clips that hold it together and LOOK ON THE INSIDE?

Yes, I can’t see anything wrong with it but I am not experienced in this sort of stuff so I can’t say for sure that it’s fine

[GTSBoy]

Photos?

[Steem]

14 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Photos?

 

[GTSBoy]

[Steem]

Didn’t realise I could take that apart thanks

[Steem]

I took apart the switch and the plastic was very brittle so it sort of just fell to pieces. I cleaned it all up and priced it back together the best I could and will test it tommorow. If it doesn’t work I will just give up and buy a new one

[Ty1]

Good luck buying brand new, especially with the weak aussie dollar...nissan want almost $500 for the switch assembly ?  mine has been playing up for a while too!

[Steem]

My relay was playing up so I bought a new one. And it solved most of the issue. Some wires where loose and also added to the problem.