Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 GTR S&S limited version chassis numbers

Jakethelake
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • 4 weeks later...
Jakethelake Rookie

Jakethelake

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I have brought one of these recently, and would love to pool any info I can find on these. What knowledge can anyone share with me?

As I understand they built 10 white, 10 silver and 12 grey. I have found and brought a grey one. All the original parts are there, dampers, arms, exhaust, air box, ecu, the works. Sills also have the special foam injected into them by S&S to stiffen the chassis. 
Bit of a unicorn find! 

  • Like 1
BK Grand Master

BK

Posted
Posted

image.thumb.png.d1bc490ab206f0e42c701c2ed033641a.png

I don't really see these becomjng a collector's car. 32 v spec or even the Aussie 32 will still be more desirable and worth more. It was just a company that fitted off the shelf parts to a car, nothing special really. There was a thread awhile ago here:

 

  • 2 weeks later...
Jakethelake Rookie

Jakethelake

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I’ll post some pics of my car up later this evening. Had some time with it in the workshop this weekend, taking video and pictures of it as I have brought it.

The biggest thing with these cars, is it was done with support from Nissan. 
As an FYI, the president of S&S Engineering was the designer of the GTR’s that we all know and love, right up to the 34 if I’m correct. 
This isn’t just a run of the mill tuning firm bolting bits on! 
They brought and refurnished 32 cars in 2000. With a raft of bespoke parts. 
They were sold online on the 5th October I think. Sold out in minutes with 600 people on the waiting list for anyone to pull out.

I have a customer in Japan ( I’m hugely in the classic car game, rebuilding three cars for him). He owns a 32 that we have here in the UK. He refused to believe we had found one. He is a car but in Japan and these cars never come up for sale. I have spent hours and hours searching for these cars, and only found 2/3 sold that can be traced, since they were built. 
 

It is super hard to find info on these. I had to search in Japanese to find most of the info I now have. 
A very interesting piece of R32 heritage.

As for rarity, who knows. V-spec cars? N1? We all know the amount built. 
These cars were the last built and sold, and only 32 cars to celebrate the R32, in conjunction with Nissan, and headed by the designer of the GTR’s? Is there a rare GTR? I’m not sure. 

Jakethelake Rookie

Jakethelake

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yes mega piece of info, thank you. I have built a file of information as I find it, have seen this on here before I think.

Taken some detailed pics and video of the car showing all the parts added by S&S , which all still bare the S&S badge.

Engine is an R33 unit, have check the engine number out also.

Have you got any more info, or seen anything else on here? I have done a search and come up with a few bits.

Agree that in Australia, the few cars imported to you guys originally will have bigger values over there when compared to later imports! 

Jakethelake Rookie

Jakethelake

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Few picture of my car over here in UK. 

Shows all of the parts on the car ( some with before and after pics after wiping years of road grime off to reveal the badges), the resin injected sills, and all the parts the last owner removed from the car when he gave it a mild tune ( very glad he elected to keep these!)

Forgive the horrendous blue hoses he had fitted, almost seem to be the law in the UK that when you imported a skyline , you had to fit blue hoses the second it landed!!

Engine wise, I will in the future, remove the cam cover and look at the valve spring caps to conform these are the titanium items fitted in build.  

Any one in aware of any of these residing in Australia?

DSC_0065.JPG

DSC_0067.JPG

DSC_0097.JPG

DSC_0072.JPG

DSC_0083.JPG

image00008.jpeg

image00014.jpeg

image00004.jpeg

image00012.jpeg

image00017.jpeg

image00018.jpeg

image00019.jpeg

image00021.jpeg

DSC_0013.JPG

DSC_0069.JPG

image00003.jpeg

S&S brochure 1.jpg

S&S brochure 2.jpg

S&S parts.jpg

DSC_0025 - Copy.JPG

  • Like 2
  • 3 years later...
sin- Community Regular

sin-

Posted
Posted

I've created a page for the S&S Limited Version on the GTR-Registry.com website.

https://gtr-registry.com/en-r32-gtr-ss-limited-version.php

I've researched and put together as much information about the car, and found as many cars as I could for the register.

There's also info on the BNR32 Rebuilt Plan which came after the S&S Limited Version.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • myrbgivesmeheadaches
      RB25DET NEO Cylinder Head

      By myrbgivesmeheadaches · Posted

      Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...