Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, long time lurker, first time poster. I've used this forum many times for information and its been a godsend, thank you to all the contributors I've relied on over the years.

Now its my time to ask for some help directly.

In short if you have a V35 couple from 03 or thereabouts, can you please take a look at the back of your OBD port and tell/show me the pin/wiring assignment?

 

Background:

I'm trying to read the ECU to confirm mine is compatabile with uprev, however no matter what I've connected to the port nothing works. My latest attempts have been trying to use Nissan Datascan II https://www.nisscan.com/NDSII/index.php with 2 different cables. The second attempt was with the bluetooth connector, however I noticed that the connector did not power up at all and I couldn't get bluetooth to even pair with my phone. I put the dongle into another car (a toyota) and while it could not read the ECU (of course) it did power up and pair to my phone.

This made me wonder if the OBD port is even wired, so I took a look.  It is connected, however the wiring does not follow any reasonable OBD spec according to any google search. Here is an example:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/On-board_diagnostics#OBD-II_diagnostic_connector

My OBD connector is attached to the post. You can see for example that power is on pin 3 (and it is live I've checked). Power is normally on pin 16 at least on all the standards I've looked at.

So what I'd like to find out is this normal? Hopefully its not, and I can rewire it back to normal, but to do that I'd like to see what is going on your car.

If anyone out there has an 03 v35 or has seen this before and knows what is going on, please help... this is putting a terrible spanner into my project!

I'd also like to suggest a sticky thread related to v35 OBD go up or maybe added to the FAQ, I've seen similar issues come up in here quite often without a clear answer as to what is going on with the v35 OBD port.

Thanks everyone, I appreciate your input you'll definately be on my xmas list if this can be figured out.

DSC_0540.JPG

  • Thanks 1

Question for you. Did you switch ignition on to see if it powered up then? I would have to check my vehicle later on as well but I have a theory about Nissan having wired it up in a possibly unconventional way and rely on power from the ignition circuit rather than direct to the battery on pin 16, for whatever reason.

I did power up the car to check that, no dice. I am planning to put power back on 16 but I'd like to see what everyone has first... however I believe the dongles I've used are looking for power only on 16.

 

Edited by Adam P

interesting, thanks sonicii. Have you used OBD2 software to talk to your car's ecu?

your peach coloured pin 14 (CAN-L) and my red coloured pin 3 (vendor assigned) are the only differences. Probably stretching it but if you have a volt meter can you see what you get out of ping 16? (the red/white wire, I only get about 3v out of it which doesn't sound like enough)

I can't get into the car to check again (healing from surgery) but its killing me to find out what is going on here.

For anyone following this a shop with experience on v35's has told me to move my red wire to the location of the pink wire in the second photo; move pin 3 to pin 14 - the exact difference in wiring between the 03 and 05.

I'll update this thread when I get to test this out (going to be a while, but I can't wait to see if it works!)

  • Thanks 1

I have a OBD2 reader I use with NissanDatascanII and it works fine, I also have a consult2 clone which works fine.

Let me know if you still need me to measure the voltage on pin16

  • 9 months later...

Guys time to reboot this thread Ive been away from it for a while but the problem is still outstanding - I cant talk to the ECU with anything.

This has lead me to looking at the CAN circuit checks as per the FSM for 03 G35. Now this is has really blown me away because I run into frequent differences between what the FSM says I should see and what the car actually has, especialy when I go through the SMJ connectors they are always not pinned in the blocks I should be seeing stuff.

Avoiding those checks - wtf - I went to the CAN comm circuit check as that should its pretty simple. Disconnect ECM, TCM and connector F102 and check continuity between the ECU connector pins 94 and 86 (continuity should not exist).

Of course, continuity doesn't exist, because it can't; pin 86 isn't even wired in the connector.

Pin 86 by the way is CAN-L so I'm struggling to how this is so.

Can someone with a v35 please take a look at their pin 86 in the ecu connector and let me know if you have it?

I'm really starting to think my car is wired different :( I've got no idea how or why or if I'm just a dingus who should put down the tools.

Attached is references, thanks.

 

lan-52.png

ecu.png

  • Confused 1

Probably can't help right now, but can only suggest you keep in mind you have a V35, not a G35, there are differences!  USDM vehicles sold after 1996 were required to be fully OBD2 compliant, Japan has no such requirement, one of the reasons many generic OBD2 readers don't work on V35s.

That said, I wouldn't expect the wiring to be all that different.

  • 3 weeks later...

Quick update.

Traced the engine harness to confirm everything connects back to right places on the ecu. It does, with a couple of not so important exceptions. 

Traced the CAN H/L lines across to the obd plug. Found a short, thought eureka, fixed it, but no, thats not my problem.

I'm trying to connect to the ecu via k-line (pin 7 in your obd connector using nissan datascan), so it meant nothing and I still couldn't get it to talk. Infuriating!

Broke out the soldering iron, made a complete bench harness for the ecu. Plugged it into my pc with the ecu and obd cable, and it worked. Put my lap top on to check it that way and it didn't go.

wtf. 

This was the 4th computer I tried, and 3 different cables, but finally a break through. The bloody laptops were pretending to talk to the cables but weren't. Couldn't believe it!

However when I took it back to the car with the pc, it didn't go.

wtf, again.

Researching the k-line network, its a star topology, typically every module is wired to a single point. If the voltage is off, chances are one of the modules connected has a short. The multimeter said it was a little low... but the FSM for it is a little vague on what it really should be.

Testing this I found that if I disconnected every module I could reach except the ecu, I could talk to the ecu with my pc. Getting somewhere...

With more testing I found that if either the body control module or the AT control module are attached, no dice. So either they are both shorted or there is just something wrong with the way they are set up out of the factory.

There is a shit nest of aftermarket japanese radio / highway card wiring in the way, its tapped into fuses and shite... thats coming out next to see if this is causing it. I found a blown fuse behind one of the taps, maybe it is.

But at least I've been able to confirm the ecu will take uprev as I could see the serial number in the ROM. I also know a lot more about the wiring in a V35 than I really care to.

Only took 10 months of stuffing around to get this far. Should be easy from here.

LOL.

 

 

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1

Toll card reader wiring removed, and now the body control module also works on the k-line network.

Just the AT control module to go. Problems with this circuit are less obvious, but I figure, worst case, I could just cut the k-line out for this module, maybe hook the ends of that wire up with connectors so I can reattach it to keep troubleshooting. That would mean no diagnostics for the auto... but it wasn't working before either so no loss. 

Does anyone know if the assumption that k-line is only used for diagnostics, and the CAN bus for inter-module communications is correct 100% of the time? Given the k-line network has been inoperable the entire time I've owned the car (5-6 years) it would seem to be so. But it would be nice to be sure about something for once before diving in.

 

  • 2 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome to the site. Any more pics? That colour is gorgeous.
    • I didn't even know that existed!!! Amazing, good work Andy at Haltech! A bit off topic here, but I actually met Andy at a Aus Lancer car meet at the old Shell Space Station in Ryde back in 2003 or so. He brought out this aluminium case and showed everyone this basic circuit and said he was making an ECU that was capable of using closed loop to self tune. Most of the people there dismissed his idea.
    • I actually was using 4D tables with my old AEM WMI system. I'm now using "Water Injection Advanced" under engine functions to control my WMI. The timing and fuel corrections are easier to use as they have WMI in mind. Example, my fuel correction is based on my WMI solenoid duty cycle, they also included built in timers to delay corrections before and after spraying, timers to ramp up pulse width, etc.   
    • Just a thought, how come you didn't use a 4D table? So you essentially run 2x fuel and 2x ignition tables, and the table/map switch is handled when there's enough WMI pressure detected. This is mine, but using the flex sensor as the 4th dimension, note the slider at the bottom. Between 0 to 70%, the timing is blended/interpolated , once it goes past 70% ethanol full send
    • Hi guys, after dreaming of owning a JDM legend for 20 years, I got the chance to buy a 1995 R33 GTR.  I live in a small country called the Solomon Islands which is in the pacific. There is no performance car scene here, however 90% of vehicles here are 2nd hand Japanese imports so there is a handful of JDM sports cars here, tucked away.  3 Evo VI’s, 1 180sx turbo, 2 GTO’s, 1 R32 GTR and 2 R33 GTR’s.    Only 1 Evo and a 33 (mine) are active. I’m hoping to set up a club to get these cars back in the road.    I’d known of my GTR for 9 years and always dreamed of owning it. At the start of this year I found it sitting outside a workshop waiting for a respray. It was in pretty bad shape, although running and driving perfectly apart from a big exhaust leak and worn out bushings. My brother in law who is a huge GTR guy came over for a holiday and I took him to see it, he got into my ear and I bought the car 2 weeks later as is.   I’ve had a pretty bad problem with alcohol and weed since 2020 and I really wanted to quit. So I used this as my motivation. I quit everything cold turkey and have been investing all my spare time into restoring this car. It’s honestly been the best experience and has been such a positive impact on my life.  There is no market for these cars here, no parts and no mechanics that can work on them, so if you wanted to sell one it would be pretty impossible unless you found the right buyer. After a bit of negotiating with the previous owner (a good friend) I got the car for $15,000 AUD ($85,000 SBD) which is insane.  I’ve almost finished doing a refresh on the engine, new turbos, spark plugs and split fire coil packs. Also new gaskets and seals, This car had no leaks to begin with, but it’s due now being 30 years old. . Next I’ll be working on the suspension, all new bushings, ball joints, king pins and new coil overs.  Then it will be body work, it has really bad rust in the boot floor, I have purchased a rear beaver cut from my bro which will replace the rusted out one. The car is originally KL0, but was burnt orange when it landed here, then it was resprayed toxic green and then Bayside Blue. I’m probably going to get it redone in Bayside Blue.  I’m super grateful to be able to enjoy this car and couldn’t have done it without my bro Chris from OG-JDM. Looking forward to the future with this car and hoping to get it on the runway at the airport here 😂  cheers fellas 
×
×
  • Create New...