Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello,

I finally completed the rebuold of my R33 after having spent 10 years on other projects. I'm running circa 550/600bhp, with many mods on the engine (forged, cams, twin 2530s, etc.) and on the car (Cusco diffs, brakes, Ohlins, etc.).

After only 1000miles, I now have a slight cooland leak. I tracked it down and...bingo, I have a crack in the block. I thought for that amount of power it would be ok but facts prove that...errr...no. I'm kinda gutted and I'm now saving for a brand new block, 86mm CP pistons (to keep cylinder walls as thick as possible) and a PRP brace.

Anyway, in the mean time, I'd like to keep using the car and have read one or two good stories about SteelSeal for that kind of problem.

 

Has anyone ever given it a try?

Tried JB weld. Worked great...for a while. Last sunday I switched the car from mid fun to max fun mode (1.7bar boost) and thrashed the car a lil' bit on nice roads. "Hello, the leak is back!" lol Or not so lol actually...

Where is the crack?

Works better if you take the paint off the block in that area. Clean well and apply jb weld dry. Drain coolant if it leaks while car is off.

Run chemiweld in coolant if you see fit.

 

Dont forget to send.

20 minutes ago, WantGTR said:

Where is the crack?

Works better if you take the paint off the block in that area. Clean well and apply jb weld dry. Drain coolant if it leaks while car is off.

Run chemiweld in coolant if you see fit.

 

Dont forget to send.

 

Crack is on the intake side, between cyl 4 and 5. I removed the intake plenum, drained coolant, removed paint, sanded the block, apply weld (https://sader.fr/produits/epoxy-repare-metal) and let it settle 48h before refilling the coolant.

It worked. But I guess 550+ bhp and cusco front diff is too much for my block...

 

That's why I'm now thinking of Steelseal.

Have you tried chemiweld on cracked blocks?

also you may want to drill a hole at each end of the crack to stop it cracking even more. but that will depend on how much room you have and how visible the crack is etc. when i used to repair the gas network the old metal pipes would crack often and before fitting a rubber clamp to seal it we always drilled each end of the cracks to stop them getting longer.

9 minutes ago, seanyreeves said:

also you may want to drill a hole at each end of the crack to stop it cracking even more. but that will depend on how much room you have and how visible the crack is etc. when i used to repair the gas network the old metal pipes would crack often and before fitting a rubber clamp to seal it we always drilled each end of the cracks to stop them getting longer.

Problem is that even after having grinded the block with my Dremel tool I could barely see the crack. 😞

There is no drip until you build pressure in the system. I've put a 0.9bar rad cap so far. Wonder if a lower pressure cap exists...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...