Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello,

I finally completed the rebuold of my R33 after having spent 10 years on other projects. I'm running circa 550/600bhp, with many mods on the engine (forged, cams, twin 2530s, etc.) and on the car (Cusco diffs, brakes, Ohlins, etc.).

After only 1000miles, I now have a slight cooland leak. I tracked it down and...bingo, I have a crack in the block. I thought for that amount of power it would be ok but facts prove that...errr...no. I'm kinda gutted and I'm now saving for a brand new block, 86mm CP pistons (to keep cylinder walls as thick as possible) and a PRP brace.

Anyway, in the mean time, I'd like to keep using the car and have read one or two good stories about SteelSeal for that kind of problem.

 

Has anyone ever given it a try?

Tried JB weld. Worked great...for a while. Last sunday I switched the car from mid fun to max fun mode (1.7bar boost) and thrashed the car a lil' bit on nice roads. "Hello, the leak is back!" lol Or not so lol actually...

Where is the crack?

Works better if you take the paint off the block in that area. Clean well and apply jb weld dry. Drain coolant if it leaks while car is off.

Run chemiweld in coolant if you see fit.

 

Dont forget to send.

20 minutes ago, WantGTR said:

Where is the crack?

Works better if you take the paint off the block in that area. Clean well and apply jb weld dry. Drain coolant if it leaks while car is off.

Run chemiweld in coolant if you see fit.

 

Dont forget to send.

 

Crack is on the intake side, between cyl 4 and 5. I removed the intake plenum, drained coolant, removed paint, sanded the block, apply weld (https://sader.fr/produits/epoxy-repare-metal) and let it settle 48h before refilling the coolant.

It worked. But I guess 550+ bhp and cusco front diff is too much for my block...

 

That's why I'm now thinking of Steelseal.

Have you tried chemiweld on cracked blocks?

also you may want to drill a hole at each end of the crack to stop it cracking even more. but that will depend on how much room you have and how visible the crack is etc. when i used to repair the gas network the old metal pipes would crack often and before fitting a rubber clamp to seal it we always drilled each end of the cracks to stop them getting longer.

9 minutes ago, seanyreeves said:

also you may want to drill a hole at each end of the crack to stop it cracking even more. but that will depend on how much room you have and how visible the crack is etc. when i used to repair the gas network the old metal pipes would crack often and before fitting a rubber clamp to seal it we always drilled each end of the cracks to stop them getting longer.

Problem is that even after having grinded the block with my Dremel tool I could barely see the crack. 😞

There is no drip until you build pressure in the system. I've put a 0.9bar rad cap so far. Wonder if a lower pressure cap exists...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...