Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello,

 

I looking at cylinder compression on my RB30/25DET, Its an older build in a R31.

 

The block was built around 2008 with 40thou over size forged pistons (can't remember brand, maybe acl) they were only 8.5compression ratio (can't remember why) Ran it as SOHC with around 200rwkw for a few years. Had Boost works in Adelaide complete the 25det head conversion and it was putting out 297rwkw for a year or so and then I had Jaustech give it another tune after I installed cams and they had it running just over 335rwkw which is has stayed around that since.

That was late 2013 

they did a compression test and it recorded:

1 - 125PSI

2 - 125PSI

3 - 120PSI

4- 125PSI

5- 130PSI

6 - 130PSI

the car has only been drivin 3 times in the past 3 years, only to the local drag strip. Shes due for a new clutch.(looking for recommendations on this also, looking at NPC 10" single plate?)

Last Easter at the drags it had clutch issues and over rev'd a few times, ive only just done a compression test (12 months later) and the results are:

1 - 100PSI

2 - 100PSI

3 - 96PSI

4 - 100PSI

5 - 105PSI

6 - 110PSI

as you can see its nearly exactly 20PSI drop over all 6 cylinders, there is also 7 years between these figures. 

I tested with all plugs out and throttle open, tested each cylinder twice with a brand new TOLEDO compression tester.

I did a search for info but maybe searched the wrong area. 

 

Is it too low? What other tests should I do? 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482000-rb3025det/
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, the-31 said:

Hello,

 

I looking at cylinder compression on my RB30/25DET, Its an older build in a R31.

 

The block was built around 2008 with 40thou over size forged pistons (can't remember brand, maybe acl) they were only 8.5compression ratio (can't remember why) Ran it as SOHC with around 200rwkw for a few years. Had Boost works in Adelaide complete the 25det head conversion and it was putting out 297rwkw for a year or so and then I had Jaustech give it another tune after I installed cams and they had it running just over 335rwkw which is has stayed around that since.

That was late 2013 

they did a compression test and it recorded:

1 - 125PSI

2 - 125PSI

3 - 120PSI

4- 125PSI

5- 130PSI

6 - 130PSI

the car has only been drivin 3 times in the past 3 years, only to the local drag strip. Shes due for a new clutch.(looking for recommendations on this also, looking at NPC 10" single plate?)

Last Easter at the drags it had clutch issues and over rev'd a few times, ive only just done a compression test (12 months later) and the results are:

1 - 100PSI

2 - 100PSI

3 - 96PSI

4 - 100PSI

5 - 105PSI

6 - 110PSI

as you can see its nearly exactly 20PSI drop over all 6 cylinders, there is also 7 years between these figures. 

I tested with all plugs out and throttle open, tested each cylinder twice with a brand new TOLEDO compression tester.

I did a search for info but maybe searched the wrong area. 

 

Is it too low? What other tests should I do? 

Was the first test done after the cams went in or before?

Why did you do a comp test? Does something seem wrong?

 

Personally I would just ignore results and carry on.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482000-rb3025det/#findComment-7947688
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Ben C34 said:

Was the first test done after the cams went in or before?

Why did you do a comp test? Does something seem wrong?

 

Personally I would just ignore results and carry on.

After Cams were installed. No nothing majorly wrong at all just running abit rougher than usual, short window for testing as I had clutch issues so just parked it up. 

 

Going to start pulling the box to replace clutch but thinking I should pull engine and install rear head oil drain as I still have issues even with oil restrictor installed in gallery. I dont think I have enough room behind the head for the drain, 20mm between firewall and head.

20210218_194835.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482000-rb3025det/#findComment-7947689
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...