Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I accidentally discovered a website that seemed to be published by a Russian showing that a CD could be inserted converting everything to usable English on my V 36. Is that only for post 2010 cars or is it possible on my 2008 car. I haven’t been able to find that site again but maybe someone here is up with the play?

Thanks John

Hi there

I had the conversion done June last year.(The Russian tech) 

About $1500 Au.

Australian 2019 GPS maps. Quality English conversion.

The whole package was supplied, no core required or charges. 

After paying, it only took about 3-4 weeks to arrive.

Good aftersales service through email.

My car, 2008 370GT coupe

Hey, that is great. Was it a CD that you put into our unit? is there more to it than that, like any wiring or other CDs for the maps etc? I noticed that it did the dash part too. Pretty good for $1500 hey? My car is a 2008 370GT too. build date is Dec 2008. I know that previously no one seemed to say that this was possible, except to do a complete change of the core and associated wiring changes to that of an Australian sold Infinity G37? 

Ok, can you give me the contact details, so I can take this further? 

I see you are at Byron Bay Clive. Not too far away except for these unknown irregular covid restrictions.  

Cheers John 

there is  a guy in christchurch nz who has reverse engineered a english conversion he sends as a file for you to burn to dvd or cd

about $400 

fixes about 90% of the Jap language on the infotainment

on ebay there is a replacement unit thats been reprogrammed by the manufaturer in estonia i believe 

thats over $1050 plus postage , direct swap with nav and radio

Edited by Camstad

I rang the guy in Estonia but he seem to only be able to speak Russian, so I’ve sent him a Skype message but don’t have an email to send to and all I can find on eBay is the conversion for a 2010+, whereas mine is 2008 And I think it needs a different one. I will continue to try and contact this guy. Thanks for your help. I actually want everything not just the $400 deal.

Cheers John

I have contacted Simon in Russia and he is processing my order for a complete unit ready to plug and play with everything in English including Australian maps for $1328 Australian. I just have to remove the old unit and plug the new unit in. This should make life a lot easier. I have also put a cruise control on the car including a copy of the genuine steering wheel controls (I think that was $1100). With today’s fines It’s just too hard to keep speed under control without it.

I think that’s pretty well makes the car the same As buying an Australian Infiniti G 37?

Thanks for all the contributions. Cheers John

The seller on eBay is sema-ik1-9

You have to purchase the unit and then send a picture of your system turned on and tell Simon whether it has Bose Soundsystem or not. If you can’t find the exact one, according to the year of your car, then you can still contact the seller by going into a similar unit that he is advertising and ask whatever questions you need to. He will get back to you via eBay.

Hope this helps anyone else who maybe interested. cheers John 

 

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi John

How did you go with your conversion? I am considering to do the same but I have also found a CD conversion for $400 from New Zealand. I realise the NZ conversion doesn't convert everything but I would like to hear your feedback before I commit.

Ps my car is a 2008 370gt coupe CKV36

 

Regards Julie

Hi Julie,

you have the same car as me and I am thrilled with my choice. I also saw that New Zealand partial conversion but in my opinion this is a much better way to go, so good. I have done a complete right up, posted under a different heading on this forum. I have re-written and corrected it more accurately and more completely and have it as a word document, Which I can send you if you like.

As long as you are reasonably handy you will be able to follow all my instructions, combined with pictures from Simon who sells the units from Estonia

Cheers John

Hi John

I have just found your notes and will read them through later.

I am sadly selling my Skyline so I have to consider if the effort and/or expense of either is viable.

It may be better to sell the car as is so the purchaser can decide for themselves.

Your knowledge here will be useful to pass on. I just wish I had followed this up sooner but it looks like a lot of the conversion options have only been round for a short time. The last time I had a good look there was only a CD available from Xanavi for the previous 350Gt models 5 years ago lol........

I have seen the Estonia adverts on Ebay and good to hear that all went well for you. Thanks so much for sharing your experience and knowledge. 

 

Julie

I need to tow a trailer and I am moving into 2-3 houses etc over the next two years so I need a SUV to help move things around. The Skyline won't be very practical for me. 😔

I am also very time poor at the moment so I might just install the $400 NZ conversion for now and at least get a few weeks of use before it goes up for sale.

Thanks for your comments and feedback. 👍 🙂

It would be possible to put a towbar on the skyline if you remove the rear muffler, and to keep the increased noise under control, put a resonator on each side, as part of a new pipe to the rear, making room for a purpose-built Towbar. 
 Just a thought if you really want to keep the skyline. Cheers John

  • 3 months later...

Hi there John

Clive here,  Remember the fueling issue iI had, well, it turned out the in tank fuel regulator was faulty.

So, I did the return fuel line mod, and fitted a fuel regulator near the engine.

All fixed, no black smoke, and idles at a steady 850 RPM. 

I still need to have the new injectors programed in. 

I hope all is good with your toys ?

Cheers,

Clive

 

  • 4 weeks later...

Hi KPL_BassMan

I just installed my conversion three weeks ago. The website is http://www.caraudioworkshop.co.nz/  and I was dealing with Richard. He was very helpful and easy to communicate with. They have also dropped the price down from $399NZ to $299NZ in the last two months.

Let me know if you have any questions.

 

Regards Julie

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...