Jump to content
SAU Community

Wtb: Cat-Back Aftermarket Exhaust!!!


Recommended Posts

Guest RedLineGTR

I am after a cat back exhaust of some sort in Melbourne since sending it from another state would be an annoying issue. This is what I need:

1. At Least 3inch piping..3.5inches would be ideal.

2. Stainless Steel or Mild Steel (Dependant on Price)

3. I currently have a HKS Supper Dragger ATM But want something louder!!

4. Suitable for a R33 GTST.

5. No Dints in actual piping (resonator is fine as long as it’s not much)

6. Would be keen on a trade on my current HKS Super Dragger 3.5 Cat Back Exhaust rather than an outright buy. BUT I DON’T HAVE TO TRADE IF IT’S THE STYLE OF EXHAUST I REALLY WANT :)

If you have a exhaust for sale please post up pic's of the exhaust and some price or pm or email me at rchrzanowski at ozemail.com.au

Thanks For Your Time. Rob :wassup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/48263-wtb-cat-back-aftermarket-exhaust/
Share on other sites

Guest RedLineGTR

I"ll have it in the For sale section during this week as a "EOI" thread to see what people are willing to pay for it, but i would be keen to buy something second hand as i'm not really keen to fork out money for a brand spanking new one since a second hand cat back will do the same job, not to many cat backs for sale atm. I will pm you when i post up the thread. Thanks Rob

A couple of A'pexi units here for $660 http://www.upimports.com.au/UPI_Parts/exhaust.php

A Kakimoto here [for something different] for $600 http://www.upimports.com.au/UPI_Parts/exhaust1.php

A "Brand Unknown" for $850 new here http://www.upimports.com.au/UPI_Parts/exhaust1.php

Another brand unknown for $800 new http://www.upimports.com.au/UPI_Parts/exhaust2.php

An 80mm one [mild steel] and an 85mm [stainless] on above link also - just over 3 inch / 3.25 resp. & $750 / $850.

APEXi Exhaust to suit R33 80mm for $700 on same link

Same link: Concept Exhaust 80mm to suit R33/GTR/GTSt new for $950

Same link: RSR 80MM Exhaust to suit R33 GTSt/GTR new for $950

And lastly you guessed it same page: R33 Skyline RSR Exhaustn Near New for $700!

Here's a pic for good measure - Concept Exhaust 80mm to suit R33/GTR/GTSt new

Exhaust_33.jpg

if you want to go the custom route, them i'm getting my cat-back exhaust done this week for $530 in melb.

specs:

3"

mandrel bent

mild steel with stainless cannon muffler

includes x-large resonator

fully fitted and it actually sits higher than stock (so you can lower the car still) :)

would be cheaper with no resonator (want it louder, hey? :P ) or with a smaller resonator but add 3.5" and it may be back up to the 500 mark...

PM me if you are interested in the name of the place (its in dandenong), or else i'm getting it done this thurs (19/8) and you can check it out on the next meetup after that...

Waz.

Guest RedLineGTR
if you want to go the custom route, them i'm getting my cat-back exhaust done this week for $530 in melb.  

specs:

3"

mandrel bent

mild steel with stainless cannon muffler

includes x-large resonator

fully fitted and it actually sits higher than stock (so you can lower the car still) :)

would be cheaper with no resonator (want it louder, hey? :) ) or with a smaller resonator but add 3.5" and it may be back up to the 500 mark...

PM me if you are interested in the name of the place (its in dandenong), or else i'm getting it done this thurs (19/8) and you can check it out on the next meetup after that...

Waz.

Thanks for that info. I'll take you up on that offer to check it out some time. Cheers Rob

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
    • But again, the engineers said your cast aluminium would be fine based on the load that would be stretching that section. Same load stretching the bolts in a flex (not the twist), with a much smaller cross sectional area than the original part you've broken. It's why you'd need to be using higher strength bolts, but that's just making up for the strength you lose with less area...
×
×
  • Create New...