Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everybody,

Long time stalker on this forum, 1st time posting.

found lots of helpful info here over the last several years,

thought it was about time I signed up to the forums.

I have a MY 1995 Nissan Skyline R33 GTS-T I bought back in 2005,
as I was on "P" plates back then and at the time it was the only (barely) legal power to weight turbo'd skyline i could drive at the time,
and it was love at the moment I sat in the drivers seat.

I'd not had many cars in my history,
a Blue Engine VC Commadore (I was given in payment for a custom PC I built as a freelance computer Tech.)
a cleveland 302 v8 ford fairmont XD (swapped for a executive high backed leather office chair)
a nissan pulsar 1.8L reebok sport (the first car I bought personally and traded in for the skyline)
the Skyline
and more recently (another Jap Import) Toyota Landdcruiser Prado 1kz 3.0L Turbo Diesel (Family Wagon)
 

But the skyline holds that special place in my heart when i get in, turn the key, and the smile appears on my face.

i hope that's a good enough introduction...

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482758-hi/
Share on other sites

Welcome!

I had a bright yellow, blue engined VC. I have great memories of that car! Rare as hens teeth these days.

Ha, I love the swaps you've made! 

What model was the pulsar? I had 3 N13's back in the day, one with a CA18DET swap.

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482758-hi/#findComment-7955120
Share on other sites

the pulsar was a white 1990 n13 1.8L reebok sport manual 5dr hatch that i bought 2nd hand for i think $3000 back in 2004,
owned by a woman who's husband had done some light modifications to it and had run some circuit days in it,
the car was very clean and straight, incredibly zippy off the line, and topped out at 180km/h at the top end of 5th, which i thought was amazing for a little 1.8L N/A.

that car was one of my favorite, just bang for buck, economical, and reliable. Power to weight was awesome.

was sad when i traded it in, for about 0.5 secs .... because the new love of my life had just opened it's door,
turned the ignition on the r33 gts25t , i was sold on the nissan brand from that moment.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482758-hi/#findComment-7955213
Share on other sites

oh and i bought the r33 with 52,000 km's on the clock for $18,000 back in 2005, 
i heard from import trader house that i bought the 33 from a few weeks later, the owner had given my pulsar to his son as a pizza delivery car / runabout ( i had used it for that same at one point )

but the son had ignored basic maintenance and had cracked a water hose and cooked the engine. ( don't ask me how i had traded it in and all the rubbers were in good nick, unless thats just the story the kid told his dad idk, )

but long story short bye bye reebok :sad:

fast forward to now,

the 33 has been a daily driver / work vehicle, and done some interstate trips and now has 240,000 kms on the clock and still going strong.

religious oil changes every 5,000 kms,

water pump change at 110,000 kms

cracked the fibreglass aftermarket front bar ( roadworks with a large drop from fresh tarmac to gravel base ) patched up with fibreglass repair kit, 2 weeks later g/f at the time cracked it again parking the car on concrete sleeper at bunnings car park one day .... veilside frontbar, after about 2 years of that was sick of being so low and projected at the front, got an OEM replacement front plastic bar and was much better.

clutch plate and cover change at about 180,000 kms, did brake pads at about the same time

radiator hose change at 185,000 kms (due to clutch change lowering the block and stretching old rubber hose is my guess) replaced the radiator core at the same time (cracked plastic inlet pipe , had gone brittle anyway)

changed the inline fuel filter around this time to a hi-flow, but after about 5,000kms got sick of the constant whirring of the stock pump trying to keep pressure up and with no noticeable gain and only wear as a result , fitted a OEM filter back in.

another water pump change at 200,000 kms

around 215,000 kms had a rubber fuel line (between inline filter and rail) spring a leak as i was going into a freeway tunnel ( that was an interesting moment) on my way to a job interview.

but at 240,000 and with what i can only only assume is 25 year old hoses and rubbers it's time for a massive birthday overhaul of all the hoses / rubbers / seals / facelift.

thinking it's about time to start modding (lightly) so perhaps a full set of braided steel lines / silicone hoses / fresh rubber door seals etc etc before going down the tuning rabbit hole / money pit ...

so yeah thats where i'm at, still love the 33, still puts a smile on my face every time i drive it.

any thoughts or advice would be greatly apricated.

 

cheers

:530_checkered_flag: 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482758-hi/#findComment-7955217
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

hey,
just a quicky,

i've posted a few times in the vic section of memberships, but no response, i paid for membership back in august, now i understand with the whole vic covid thing things may be moving slower than normal , but i had expected at least some confirmation of payment by now ....
anyway to get _something_ to confirm ?

i'm looking at rego after having had my 33 gts25t off road after a few years and was considering going club plates as i FIFO for work and am only home ~6 months of the year, but due to the time restrictions on SAU with 3 months membership requirement it's looking like i will at least have to get a 6 month rego unless SAU will backdate to the date i paid the fees as opposed to confirmation, also i'd just like to know that my money hasn't gone to a dead fund. ( i mean it's not like owning a skyline is expensive enough ) just i'd rather put that towards useful purposes i.e. new hoses / fluids / upgrades / other restoration parts .

any updates would be apricated,

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482758-hi/#findComment-7957121
Share on other sites

oh and after pulling a few minor dings, and full respray, roadworthy came back with the massive list of ;-

  • passenger side sill (underside) damage
  • rear steering excessive movement ( new tie rods rear inner and outer )
  • rear spoiler led stop lamp not working

i figure as i have the high rear window stop lamp and the 2 main rear hotplate stop lamps the spoiler led shouldn't be defactable.

as far as the other 2 items go $950 at a workshop and the roadworthy is happy.

registration tomorrow .... 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482758-hi/#findComment-7957123
Share on other sites

Registered, and back on the road again, 😁

so good to be driving her again.

now the fun begins,

sent Racepace an email.

I want to get a baseline as how far she has fallen from factory in the last 26 years before we start discussing how much power we can give her.

i mean i could do calculations all day power to weight and tyre contact patch ratio's and all that jazz

but no point getting hopes up on a bazillion hp beast if the engine isn't going to handle it, right?

after all, the only things i know that have been done to it is exhaust and speed limiter removed / bypassed.

so i guess i'll wait to get a tune before we start looking at upgrades.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482758-hi/#findComment-7957147
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...