Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Rust on the struttower is always a big problem. I am not affected by this, but to keep it that way, it is necessary to preserve the sheets on top of each other well. To do this, I drilled a 1.5mm hole at a point where the welded sheets are as far apart as possible. This can be seen from the fact that the welding points are pulled down. Then I injected anti-rust oil (fluid film A) with a 1,5mm needle and a syringe, 10ml per side, which I repeated 2-3 times with a few weeks apart. The oil is relatively thin and creeps into all the seams and cavities between the metal sheets. It can also penetrate existing rust, but this takes a long time. After 6 months I repeated this with rust protection grease (Mike Sanders), the grease has to be heated up well so that it is liquid enough to be processed with the syringe. This NEVER gets hard and creeps for years, this is supported by the fact that the engine compartment is always very warm. This approach is very common here and has been successfully tested. I have gradually treated all cavities in the car with it. The only downside is you have to wipe off any leaking grease at the seams and holes. The rust certainly no longer has a chance for that.
 
IMG_7959.thumb.JPG.69cb6a7ca1817bf17c5fd490de0db2b7.JPG
 
IMG_7907.thumb.JPG.285aa15639c760743987bad707a585c9.JPG
 
IMG_7906.thumb.JPG.c174f058d27311c1196abb457a705ddb.JPG
 
Here you can see the grease creeping out the seams
IMG_7914.thumb.JPG.acb2dcdbae64346350ff4319e20d5ce3.JPG
 
 
I hope this is helpful to someone
 
Kai
  • Like 2
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482815-rust-prevention-on-strut-tower/
Share on other sites

Thanks for this. I too want to slow down/stop the corrosion process at this location. It seems that regardless of the condition of the car, you will get rust on the strut tops unless you seam seal the car from new. I've really just been budgeting to get the plates swapped out, treated, then seam seal around the gaps.

Until now all I've done is liberally blasted WD40 in and around the area from the wheel well, what effect this'll have is debatable, hopefully postive. I don't have any bubbling or abnormalities showing from the top side but on close inspection of the underside there are definitely traces of corrosion. 

With this method, presumably you only drilled through the top sheet of the strut top?

Would it have been beneficial to drill more than one location?

Does the leaky grease have any negative effect on other surfaces, e.g. brake lines or painted surfaces other than looking messy?

 

 

 

Of course, I only drilled through the top sheet metal and I don't think there is any advantage in drilling several holes. The grease creeps over long distances over time. WD 40 is definitely better than nothing but look around for special anti-rust agents. Mike Sanders sends worldwide, ok that is certainly not cheap but cheaper than having to replace the metal sheets. Except that it doesn't look nice in the places where the grease escapes, there are no negative effects on plastic or technical parts. it shouldn't drip on the brake, but that should be clear.

Here is a comparison of diffrent anti rust agents.

Sorry only in German.

oldtimer_markt_rostschutz-test_teil_1.pdfoldtimer_markt_rostschutz-test_teil_2_1.pdfoldtimer_markt_rostschutz-test_teil_3.pdf

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...