Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Gday SAU,

 

On my R34 sedan, the doors love to close shut on their own, and are prone to swinging wide open on a windy day. During my search I've learned about the R35 door link upgrade, however; people have only done this to coupe R34s and S15s as far as I can find. The Nissan EPC has told me that the sedan and coupe have different door links, so I'm not game to buy an R35 set on the (wishful) chance it works for sedans.

 

Has anyone found a clean solution to this problem, or tried the R35 links in a sedan?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/483340-r34-sedan-door-link-upgrades/
Share on other sites

The R35 set works in Sedans. I have a full set, all 4, there is a left hand R35 side and a right hand R35 side. You need 2 of each.

The only things you will need are 4 nuts which are not included.

It really does feel and work great.

  • Like 2
  • 1 month later...

Hey @Kinkstaah, what model is your sedan? ER34? I'm trying to work out whether I can fit the same door links on my WGNC34 Stagea. Going from EPC data it looks the same.

On ER34 it is 80410M for the front door and 82430 for the rear door. Which matches the links on my WGNC34.

Also, the 4 nuts are for 2 doors, right? So 8 nuts for 4 doors? Thanks!

 

As an aside, there are some more details with the R35 part numbers in this thread.

Quote

 

Nissan 80430-KB50B - STOPPER, DOOR
Nissan 80431-KB50B - STOPPER, DOOR
Nissan 80440-AG000 - COVER, CHECK LINK RH
Nissan 80441-AG000 - COVER, CHECK LINK LH

4 x M6 nuts

 

 

Hey mate, my sedan is a R34 Series 2 GTT. From memory you need 2x nut per door as per the image in the linked thread which also is correct. You'll be happy every time you open a door, which when you think about it, is at least 200%+ of the time you drive the vehicle.

  • Thanks 1
On 06/04/2022 at 11:58 PM, Kinkstaah said:

You'll be happy every time you open a door, which when you think about it, is at least 200%+ of the time you drive the vehicle.

Man, tell me about it. I think personally I snapped the day I had to wedge a broomstick in the door to keep it open in the perfectly level courtyard. It was ridiculous. So yeah I'm super excited about this. Looks like the Stagea uses the same bits for the doors.

Just looking for somewhere to get them from. Amayama has them, but a bit of a lead time. Trust-kikaku has them in stock but more pricey. Enquired with jp-carparts as well, see what they say.

Just as an aside, the door links in the R34 sedan and WGNC34 Stagea are not the same. I didn't look at the epc-data correctly. I must have been blinded by the glorious fantasy of having doors that actually work.

See for example the two diagrams of the doors: R34 <-> Stagea. 80410M in the middle. R34 uses 80430AA000 and Stagea uses 804300V000. The doors also look nothing like each other.

Anyways, I ordered a set of door links before realising so will at least have a look if it can work. I'm just glad I only ordered the links and not whole bloody doors. That would have been pretty funny in a not really funny kind of way.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...