Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I live in WA and the car I have put a deposit on is in NT. I have 2 questions. 1. What is the best way to pay them without them running off with the money (Not saying they will but you never know with a stranger) and 2. What is the cheapest freight from NT(Darwin) to WA (Perth). Any insight would be appreciated. 

I don't really have any suggestion about the first, but since you said it is a rolling shell and therefore not running it will be eye watering to get it from Darwin to Perth; I guess you will need someone you trust to load it into a container and strap if down properly, then ship from there to Perth. Most likely that will involve trucks and both ends and rail in between (if you guys have had your rail reconnected to the rest of Oz by then)

Ok thanks I will look into it. I think I will try and get a car shipping company to move it. I have about 1k to spend on shipping it and I cant go out there so I hope I can find something. BTW the car is a S1 R33 GTST

On 21/03/2022 at 9:10 AM, Cade.The.JDM.Enthusiast said:

Ok thanks I will look into it. I think I will try and get a car shipping company to move it. I have about 1k to spend on shipping it and I cant go out there so I hope I can find something. BTW the car is a S1 R33 GTST

Ha ! You got no hope at that price. Darwin to Perth is nearly 5000km going the main transport way and the car is a non runner, which makes it more expensive to freight.

When we got our white 32 GTR as a non runner back in 2019 from Sydney to Alice Springs it was over $2k, and that was depot to depot which is the cheaper than door pickup. Average for non runner was in excess of $3k from the likes of Ceva etc. Darwin to Perth is going to kill you if you only budgeted $1k.

The only carrier that wouldn't be well over $5k for a non runner that does that route will be SMB transport, which you can book through Moving cars.

Log onto moving cars and get a quote for a non runner Darwin to Perth - I'll be surprised if it comes in at under $4k.

 

I find that hard to believe for a non runner and the route they will take, as the car carriers route will definitely be Darwin, Alice, Port Augusta then west to Perth.

If you really can do it for under $2k for a non runner as you say, I'd be jumping on it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...