Jump to content
SAU Community

Help Please!!!

GTRREX

By GTRREX,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

GTRREX Apprentice

GTRREX

Posted
Posted

Hi guys,

I have a '97 R33 GTR with HKS GT2530 turbos. Earlier tonight I was having some fun driving it when I noticed that it started to feel a little "sluggish". I then noticed that the peak boost it had achieved in my last run was only 1.2 bar instead of the 1.5 bar I was getting earlier. I quickly pulled the car over and smoke was absolutely pouring out the exhaust. It was difficult to see in the dark but it looked like the smoke was white in colour. I lifted the bonnet could hear water or fluid bubbling in the radiator (don't know if that means anything but I haven't noticed that before). I also noticed a couple of strange sounds when I noticed the car was sluggish but I can't remember what they sounded like but only remember hearing something out of the usual. The car still runs but is now is running very badly so I just got it towed.

Does this sound like a blown turbo? If so can it be repaired or what's involved getting it fixed. If it doesn't sound like a turbo then any ideas on what has happened.

As I'm sure you can tell, I have very limited mechanical knowledge but am very concerned. I hope someone can help.

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/48360-help-please/
Share on other sites
Amaru Veteran

Amaru

Posted
Posted

To me the coolant bubbling in the radiator sounds like you may have overheated the car and blown a headgasket, which would cause the white smoke and performance problems the cars now having. Possibly get that checked out. Did you notice if the water (or even oil) temp was abnormal?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/48360-help-please/#findComment-973027
Share on other sites
GTRREX Apprentice

GTRREX

Posted
  • Author
Posted

No I didn'y think to look at the temp guages unfortunately. It was a progressive event that took about 2 minutes in that firstly everything was fine then I stopped then accelerated very hard and noticed performance was quite poor compared to 5 minutes earlier, I then backed off and noticed that it only made 1.2 bar boost, I then cruised for about 1km and then noticed the engine did not sound right when I accelerated, I did not notice smoke at this point but then it was just pouring out the exhaust.

If it's the head gasket, is this a big deal? Does it take long for a mechanic to fix or cost much?

Thanks again!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/48360-help-please/#findComment-973044
Share on other sites
GTRREX Apprentice

GTRREX

Posted
  • Author
Posted
To me the coolant bubbling in the radiator sounds like you may have overheated the car and blown a headgasket, which would cause the white smoke and performance problems the cars now having. Possibly get that checked out. Did you notice if the water (or even oil) temp was abnormal?

Aha! I think you're right. Just thinking about it now, I was running the car quite hard with acceleration and at high speeds and then pulled over for 5 mins and just let the car idle while I was talking to a mate. At this point everything was fine, then jump in car, accelerate hard and find poor power and so on.

So probably after giving the car a hard run, then pulling over and without airflow through the engine bay it was overheating while I left it idleing. Does this sound like it could be the case?

And further again about a head gasket, is it a difficult job to fix/replace and would it take long for a mechanic to do?

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/48360-help-please/#findComment-973067
Share on other sites
400kwgtr Rising Star

400kwgtr

Posted
Posted

head gasket on a gtr? maybe $2000. fair bit of work to get the head off. On all of my past performance cars i have installed a cheap and money saving device. Its a bloody big siren that is wired into the water temperature, so that when it starts to overheat for whatever reason the thing goes off and scares the crap out of you. Sometimes on the track its hard to check your guages when you are racing.

Was there any coolant under the car? Did you notice the cars acceleration do a quick stutter or just do a big miss for a second? I have noticed my cars do this before when a radiator hose blows.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/48360-help-please/#findComment-974906
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...
Mr GTS4 Mentor

Mr GTS4

Posted
Posted

i have a simialar problem in my R32 GTS4 - no performance loss, but after a drive in the hot wheather after i turn the car off the coolant overflow tank and almost full and is making a bubbling noise. they is not leaks, not smaoke out of the exhaust, temp gauge doesn't go up at all, stays at halfway. i also had a water pump replaced about 4 - 5 months ago and the guys only put water back in, about a week later i drained the radiator and filled it with coolant. could the problem just be that the water is overheating.

p.s. colour of water is green and no signs of oil or anything. also no water in engine oil.

any help would be great

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/48360-help-please/#findComment-994327
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
×
×
  • Create New...