Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb25det Weird spluttering / dying while driving.

Saul007

By Saul007,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Saul007 Newbie

Saul007

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey guys, have a weird one here. The car is a r32 with a 25det s2. Basic bolt on mods that has been tuned by previous owner. Power figures unknown. Currently running on 10psi. 

First issue is the car is losing voltage on startup. Turn the key to crank her over and it drops from 12.8v to about 6 or 7v. Only started doing this after I changed the coilpacks and plugs around to new ones but I can't see why they would do this ?

Second issue is the car will randomly hesitate and splutter almost like it's fuel / boost cutting. Hard to explain. On acceleration it'll splutter, die out and come back to life. It's like the car just loses all power and dies down until it jerks itself back to life. Or when I try to accelerate slowly at low cruising speeds it will do it then too. Fuel pump is a walbrough that's a few years old and new recent fuel filter. Haven't check injectors just yet. It also has a new O2 and ecu coolant temp sensor. A few people have told me that AFM going faulty has similar issues. Intermittent hesitation and spluttering then eventually dying out and working again after letting it sit for a while. I've cleaned it but no difference. Again it doesn't always have this issue, it pulls and drives like it should most times then other times itll have this issue. Any info would be really appreciated on what I could try myself before I take it in to a shop and get charged the heaven and the earth. Cheers 

Edited by Saul007
Chopstick Tuner Enthusiast

Chopstick Tuner

Posted
Posted

If you're concerned about battery voltage, put it on a load tester. If it drops below 9v put it in the bin. Could even have a loose battery terminal (forgive me for starting so basic, I don't know how mechanically minded you are) and therefore losing electrical power and spark etc. 

Start with that before diving in deep, charging problems and lack of voltage will affect spark, how much power the fuel pump gets and so on. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      WGNC34 - floor mats

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I dunno about that as a blanket statement. Pitwork is Nissan's "Nissan genuine" thing, and for stuff like timing belts, I have found them to be excellent. Of course, for things like oil filters, you always use proper trusted brands anyway, not whatever the OEM has taken to using.
    • MBS206
      R34 Skyline climate control unit transistor

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Ahhhh... If you were putting 12V to the led in there, that's likely made it very unhappy. Chances are how you put power, was 12V across an LED that's meant to only have about 20mA through it at peak, and a forward voltage of about 1.8 to 2.4 volts. That circuit is likely only a 3V3 circuit, and will have a resistor in series with the led too. That's my guesstimate on that light, without having touched one.
    • Murray_Calavera
      Tein Circuit Master- rebuild worth it?

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Another vote for installing them and see how you go.  I mean, you already own them, why would you not fit them? 
    • Duncan
      NC MX5

      By Duncan · Posted

      I have had too many of those over the years, my cars have a toolkit or at minimum a cheapy multi tool thing because its too easy to be snookered by some stupid plastic clip that stops you checking the battery terminal isn't loose.
    • Duncan
      WGNC34 - floor mats

      By Duncan · Posted

      Basically, if there is a part# on the nissan catalogue, it is a genuine part. There is a thing called "new old stock" which is stuff made years ago but never sold (or landfilled), but it is super hit and miss what you can buy. Other than some expensive Nismo stuff there is nothing new being made that suits these cars. The only time to be a little careful is (mostly in the US I think, but maybe Japan too), Nissan started rebranding some cheap crap maintenance parts like oil filters as "Pitworks"; stay away from them, if you are buying cheap just buy whatever the local car parts shop carries The three part numbers have an explanation on Amayama: 0V005 is auto, base style 0V015 is manual 0V505 is auto, hectic momo branded ones, maximum F&F points there!
×
×
  • Create New...