Jump to content
SAU Community

rb25de neo vs rb25det neo ecu harness

eli995
 Share

Recommended Posts

eli995 Explorer

eli995

Posted
Posted

this may be an obvious question but does anyone know if the connection point to the rb25 NA neo is the same as the rb25det neo? i assume they are but couldnt fimd aything on the forum and i want to get the RB25DET NEO TO RB25 S1 S2 ECU Patch Harness instead of spending the extra 1k. if theres any other connections id need to add to the ecu any info would be greatly appreciated.

robbo_rb180 Grand Master

robbo_rb180

Posted
Posted

Both r34 ecu connectors are the same.

Easiest way is to just have both looms out laid out, both wiring diagrams and remove what is not needed on r34 loom then get new plugs and wire up whats required to r32 body plugs so its complete plugin. If using the standard r34 ecu.

Are you wanting to run the Neo on a non-Neo ecu? Injectors, coils, IACV and CAS are all wired different.

eli995 Explorer

eli995

Posted
  • Author
Posted

also im trying to use the rb25 neo with the adapter for the rb25 neo to the rb25det on my 1992 r32. and im using a link ecu froma rb25 and i have a s1 head and will be using non neo  Injectors, coils, IACV and CAS are all wired different.

robbo_rb180 Grand Master

robbo_rb180

Posted
Posted

Essentially everything is non neo so no need for Neo loom then. Change plugs required on r32 loom which is easy.

Anything additional can br wired and program changes in the link ecu and be fine.

I started with a link plugin and factory loom in my sil80 before going an xtreme and custom loom.

eli995 Explorer

eli995

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i only have the rb25 neo loom i bought an adapter from wiring specialists to fit an rb25 ecu is the neo loom practically useless? or can i still use it as a rb25 s1 loom with some wire added on?

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted
On 8/19/2022 at 5:01 AM, eli995 said:

i only have the rb25 neo loom i bought an adapter from wiring specialists to fit an rb25 ecu is the neo loom practically useless? or can i still use it as a rb25 s1 loom with some wire added on?

Much of the Neo loom will be the same, but there are many differences. You will need to bell it out to make sure that the right ECU pins are going to right field devices, and many of them won't be. The Neo has different field devices (such as the boost sensor) using pins that are used for other things on the vanilla 25. You might end up having to take it apart in places to make it reach the devices it is supposed to, repin at the ECU end, etc etc.

You're going to need the entire R32 wiring diagram, so you know the body side wiring and how to integrate it into the engine loom, and you're going to need both the Neo and vanilla 25 wiring diagrams to find all the differences and straighten them out.

it would be far easier to piss off the adapter and just get a vanilla 25 loom. Far less bodging.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
×
×
  • Create New...