Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello everyone, 

I am working on a 1993 R32 GTR for a friend of mine and have to install a Greddy oil filter relocation kit and a Greddy Oil Cooler. The oil filter relocation kit comes with two plates (one that goes where the original oil filter went on the block and one where the oil filter will eventually sit [somewhere near the dirver's side strut mount]). The oil cooler comes with a thermostatic sandwich plate which also seems to go where the original oil filter position was. However, it also mounts up to the plate from the filter relocation kit. 

Do I just hook up both kits as normal and simply screw in the thermostatic plate on the oil filter relocation plate and then the oil filter on top of that? Or do I put the thermostatic sandwich plate on the block (and attach the oil relocation plate on top)

I have included a picture of the 3 plates in question. The plate on the left is the plate where the oil filter will go after being relocated, the middle on is the thermostatic plate that came with the oil cooler, and the plate on the right is the plate that screws into the block where the original oil filter location is. The second picture is just me test installing it to show my idea. 

I was wondering how I should route this and needed input from anyone who has done this. I.e. How to arrange the plates and which tubes to go to which ports. 

P.S. I didnt order these parts or plan this out I'm just the one installing them. 

Thanks in advance!

 

20230519_232454.jpg

20230520_123036.jpg

You need to make sure the oil is filtered, whether or not the thermostat is opened. Can't really tell how it works from those pics and I assume there were no instructions provided....

Did the kit come with lines, or are you making them. The old school location of upside down on the strut tower is a crap idea. Much better to mount the filter upside down on the chassis rail in front of the front diff

Yes I'm sure its genuine. I believe the mistake my friend made was ordering a relocation kit separate from the oil cooler kit rather than getting the combined kit. I saw on Greddy's website these are 2 separate kits.

The kits came with lines. 2 lines on the relocation and 2 kits on the oil cooler. 

Looking at this now I believe that the oil will be filtered whether or not the thermostat is open. 

The first picture shows how the plate operates when cold. Oil comes up from the bottom and goes into the filter- and exits the filter back to the block. (when cold it comes through where the spring is in the hole).

The second picture shows how it will work when it is hot. The thermostat opens and the oil flows out of the thermostat plate to the cooler- it then comes back to the filter by the space that is now opened because the thermostat is open (and returns to the block). [Where the brass piece is now- as its at room temp its closed]. 

The third picture is the bottom of the thermostatic plate. 

In other words, when the thermostat opens the part of the plate that would lead directly to the filter is closed but there is enough space left open for the oil to go directly to the cooler. Additionally the space that is now open because the thermostat is open allows oil to flow back from the cooler into the filter (through the left port). 

The truth is they should have gotten the combined kit but probably did not realize they can achieve the relocation and oil cooler with one kit rather than 2.

What do you think?

P.S. The oil filter will go near the strut but it won't be upside down- it will be vertical. 

 

20230520_183037.jpg

20230520_183054.jpg

20230520_183101.jpg

Edited by Tom24GR
Adding the P.S.
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
    • Yes. Autos typically work from the speed sensor on the pinion shaft of the diff. I also think that even if you have a proper speed sensor for the bog manual in the manual box, that the signal it outputs is not compatible with the auto dash anyway. You should consult that manual (the book, not the gearbox).
    • And I just realised that that advice is slightly nonsensical for a GTR, because you need 2 of them. But it is otherwise true.
    • Having had a reasonable look at the car, I'll be able to remove the (one time) rams and retract the hinge (they are held in the down location by a tiny (m3?) sacrificial screw) which will get it physically back in shape. From there if you remove the rams you need a resistor to turn off the airbag light (as Mark said, there are plug in kits and I might go that way because its reversible). And...per all the threads on here, even if you have the resistors to turn off the airbag light, the bonnet light will stay on as it writes to the airbag computer history - that is either replace the airbag controller, reprogam the EPROM (if I can work out how), or remove the globe from the dash. Having seen how sensitive this system is, if I had my time over I'd pre-emptively remove the rams, even on a road car, because this is all a very unnecessary pain in the arse. Reminds me, time to go and have a look at the Fuga too....
×
×
  • Create New...