Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello everyone, 

I am working on a 1993 R32 GTR for a friend of mine and have to install a Greddy oil filter relocation kit and a Greddy Oil Cooler. The oil filter relocation kit comes with two plates (one that goes where the original oil filter went on the block and one where the oil filter will eventually sit [somewhere near the dirver's side strut mount]). The oil cooler comes with a thermostatic sandwich plate which also seems to go where the original oil filter position was. However, it also mounts up to the plate from the filter relocation kit. 

Do I just hook up both kits as normal and simply screw in the thermostatic plate on the oil filter relocation plate and then the oil filter on top of that? Or do I put the thermostatic sandwich plate on the block (and attach the oil relocation plate on top)

I have included a picture of the 3 plates in question. The plate on the left is the plate where the oil filter will go after being relocated, the middle on is the thermostatic plate that came with the oil cooler, and the plate on the right is the plate that screws into the block where the original oil filter location is. The second picture is just me test installing it to show my idea. 

I was wondering how I should route this and needed input from anyone who has done this. I.e. How to arrange the plates and which tubes to go to which ports. 

P.S. I didnt order these parts or plan this out I'm just the one installing them. 

Thanks in advance!

 

20230519_232454.jpg

20230520_123036.jpg

You need to make sure the oil is filtered, whether or not the thermostat is opened. Can't really tell how it works from those pics and I assume there were no instructions provided....

Did the kit come with lines, or are you making them. The old school location of upside down on the strut tower is a crap idea. Much better to mount the filter upside down on the chassis rail in front of the front diff

Yes I'm sure its genuine. I believe the mistake my friend made was ordering a relocation kit separate from the oil cooler kit rather than getting the combined kit. I saw on Greddy's website these are 2 separate kits.

The kits came with lines. 2 lines on the relocation and 2 kits on the oil cooler. 

Looking at this now I believe that the oil will be filtered whether or not the thermostat is open. 

The first picture shows how the plate operates when cold. Oil comes up from the bottom and goes into the filter- and exits the filter back to the block. (when cold it comes through where the spring is in the hole).

The second picture shows how it will work when it is hot. The thermostat opens and the oil flows out of the thermostat plate to the cooler- it then comes back to the filter by the space that is now opened because the thermostat is open (and returns to the block). [Where the brass piece is now- as its at room temp its closed]. 

The third picture is the bottom of the thermostatic plate. 

In other words, when the thermostat opens the part of the plate that would lead directly to the filter is closed but there is enough space left open for the oil to go directly to the cooler. Additionally the space that is now open because the thermostat is open allows oil to flow back from the cooler into the filter (through the left port). 

The truth is they should have gotten the combined kit but probably did not realize they can achieve the relocation and oil cooler with one kit rather than 2.

What do you think?

P.S. The oil filter will go near the strut but it won't be upside down- it will be vertical. 

 

20230520_183037.jpg

20230520_183054.jpg

20230520_183101.jpg

Edited by Tom24GR
Adding the P.S.
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
    • Yeah that looks like great caster, but I'd suggest trying less front camber some time and seeing if it helps with braking without reducing mid corner speed too much
    • I ended up setting the rear 5mm higher than normal to give some clearance.  My plan is to run the least camber I can in the rear which I think with the extra width is going to need to be -1.75 to -2.00° just to get clearance.  Guards have been rolled and pulled as much as they can/I would be wanting to.  front has the Acostal knuckle with the KPI change and the drop etc. So should be okay with the existing settings I have run with AR1s etc Front: Toe total -2mm(1mm out each side) Caster +7.5° Camber -3.8° Ackerman +15°
×
×
  • Create New...