Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I took my Skyza out to a wet pan event and whilst waiting my turn my car just died. I Jumped it and my voltage was just over 12. Keeping the revs up I was able to keep the car running. But voltage was still quite low. Then all of a sudden 13.8 for a bit then back down. It kept going up and down my whole trip home.

does this sound like a dodgy Alternator?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484767-rb25-charging-issues/
Share on other sites

On 27/6/2023 at 8:56 AM, GTSBoy said:

And let's not bother finding out what is actually wrong.

Hey mate, I think the problem is actually the alternator light. I don't Chet the charge light coming on at all. Here is where it is currently plugged in to. Perils of picking up someone else's project. In the pic the circled bit is where the light wire is going. It is a white/red wire on the other side

 

IMG_4698.jpeg

IMG_4697.jpeg

On 30/6/2023 at 5:54 PM, GTSBoy said:

Yuh, so break out the multimeter and check the wiring. Pull the dash out and check the globe locally.

Ok, I have pulled the cluster out. The bulb is fine. There is power at both sides of the globe.

does this mean the Alternator is not earthing the wire when the ignition is on but car not running?

does this tell you anything?

5 hours ago, OO Dan OO said:

There is power at both sides of the globe.

If you have power both sides, then yes, there is no earth. That wire runs through the alternator as the exciter, which causes it to start producing current, which it will not reliably do without the excitation. You can follow it on the wiring diagram to see where it goes.

1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

If you have power both sides, then yes, there is no earth. That wire runs through the alternator as the exciter, which causes it to start producing current, which it will not reliably do without the excitation. You can follow it on the wiring diagram to see where it goes.

I noticed there is no earth wire bolted to the back of the alternator. I clipped my test light on this bolt and tested a live wire to see if it is grounded and I got sparks. Does this mean my alternator is possibly just not grounding enough?

1 hour ago, OO Dan OO said:

I noticed there is no earth wire bolted to the back of the alternator. I clipped my test light on this bolt and tested a live wire to see if it is grounded and I got sparks. Does this mean my alternator is possibly just not grounding enough?

Impossible to say.

Get the wiring diagram. Make sure you have the same wiring as the diagram. If you have the same wiring, and it has continuity where it should, AND shit's not working.....then you suspect the alternator has a fault.

Just don't mistake the main power stud with a grounding point, there are a few different model alternators on these, but AFAIK they all have an M6 stud for the positive and an m5 bolt or stud for the earth. 

It does need to be earthed to charge properly

45 minutes ago, Duncan said:

Just don't mistake the main power stud with a grounding point, there are a few different model alternators on these, but AFAIK they all have an M6 stud for the positive and an m5 bolt or stud for the earth. 

It does need to be earthed to charge properly

It is a little bolt that I am talking about. Definitely not a stud. It doesn't have power just not earthed

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
    • Oh, you are right. But, in Australia E10 is based on 91RON fuel and ends up being 94RON. Hence it being the cheaper option for economy cars. The more performance oriented cars go for the 98RON fuel that has no ethanol mixed in. The only step up we have left then at some petrol stations is E85.
    • There is a warning that "this thread is super old" but they ignore that anyway...
    • With 10% Ethanol, we're talking 2-3% fuel consumption difference. The emissions reductions and octane boost in my opinion far outweigh this almost non existent loss.    My tanks sitting at 80%. Luckily that should go down fast as I'm on vacation again for the next two weeks. 
×
×
  • Create New...