Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 GTR stock rear muffler insights


Recommended Posts

Hi guys

Has anyone noticed that on the stock R34 GTR rear muffler the right tip is almost not been used? Firstly there is almost no black exhaust deposit, and secondly, after a drive that right one is is only warm, while you can't touch the left one without getting burned.

r34gtrtipsb.thumb.jpg.d85dfcc167a16b3059e1bbbe26ede02c.jpg

Is there maybe a spring loaded flap in the box that only opens up the right section at a certain amount of counter pressure? Or what is the reason for that?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, silencium said:

Hi guys

Has anyone noticed that on the stock R34 GTR rear muffler the right tip is almost not been used? Firstly there is almost no black exhaust deposit, and secondly, after a drive that right one is is only warm, while you can't touch the left one without getting burned.

r34gtrtipsb.thumb.jpg.d85dfcc167a16b3059e1bbbe26ede02c.jpg

Is there maybe a spring loaded flap in the box that only opens up the right section at a certain amount of counter pressure? Or what is the reason for that?

There is a spring-loaded flap that only runs it at high enough flow rates. Nissan did this to reduce noise at low load/RPM while reducing backpressure at higher flow rates. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

23 hours ago, Duncan said:

You may well be the only person in the world still choking an R34 GTR with a standard exhaust!

It's not quite like that  ;) I've put that backbox on my daily S13. Got sick of the drone all aftermarket mufflers give, what is a problem of their design, because all of them are absorption type mufflers, and these just don't work for low frequencies. So that stock resonator type muffler (all oem mufflers are resonators) that is designed to work for a 300hp engine is the perfect solution for my daily. Also MOT is very strict in my country, so as a bonus its says "Nissan Calsonic" on the box  ;D

P_20230804_001617.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 8/13/2023 at 2:04 PM, silencium said:

Thanks for your enlightenment. That's what I though and what makes sense  :)  Would you know of a picture or a diagram of that System by any chance?

Not sure there's any great pictures online, if you stick an inspection camera down the muffler you'll probably see it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

57 minutes ago, silencium said:

It's not quite like that  ;) I've put that backbox on my daily S13. Got sick of the drone all aftermarket mufflers give, what is a problem of their design, because all of them are absorption type mufflers, and these just don't work for low frequencies. So that stock resonator type muffler (all oem mufflers are resonators) that is designed to work for a 300hp engine is the perfect solution for my daily. Also MOT is very strict in my country, so as a bonus its says "Nissan Calsonic" on the box  ;D

P_20230804_001617.jpg

In that case, you just quadrupled your car's value :rofl:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What are the torque specs for those 6 bolts on the retainer plate and 4 oil pan bolts? I'm currently tackling this job during an auto to manual conversion... I thought this would a 5 minute job! 
    • Tryna decide if I should get a skirt coating on my cp 2618 forged pistons that im about to order. Anyone have first hand experience with a forged RB with coated or non coated piston skirts? Is it worth it and does it make much difference? And for people who went with 2618 pistons with no skirt coating how long has your engine lasted? The engine is an rb25/30 and main concern is  that It will be a daily car and will probably see a fair bit of short distance driving, have been told by my machine shop and my tuner that generally a forged engine lasts around 40,000kms before needing a rebuild. Would a skirt coating make much of a difference? cheers 
    • From now on read it as minus 5 and minus 7 instead of dash, and you're correct...
    • Opened up the cluster to inspect the gauge itself for signs of damage and it looks good. Got curious since that needle doesn't go back to a "neutral" position by itself (it stays in the same position when ignition is off. so I manually moved it to 1/2. Connected it back, turned on the ignition and the needle started moving up! Not sure what's up with that but before that the needle was way down below empty like fully south west. There's always a chance that the needle moved slightly the first time I tried and I didn't notice because of how slowly it moves and how far it was from the markings. I don't know if the current needle position is accurate so I'll fill it up and see where that brings it. I guess I'll try to adjust it manually if it doesn't get to F. Looks like the needle position is relative and not absolute? Thanks all for your help and patience!
    • You're confusing two different responders and more than one issue. The stock Neo ECU boost sensor is used by the ECU for protection purposes. It is essentially only an overboost sensor. It is not used for determining engine load for fuelling or ignition purposes. That task falls solely to the AFM. Any aftermarket ECU that either has an onboard MAP sensor or a plug in one, will use the MAP sensor as the primary load sensor. Or I should perhaps say "can", rather than "will", because some of them have the option of using other primary load sensors. That MAP sensor is not for the same function as the stock Neo boost sensor. The reason I recommended against a plug and play ECU is that they are intended to run a particular engine and usually in the car that the particular engine came in. So, if you have a transplanted engine in a different car, with some parts of the original missing (such as the boost sensor, for example) and therefore likely non-standardness of the loom and its insertion into the car's loom, then it is very likely that you will run into the same problems with needing to fix up wiring to make it work that you would with the stock ECU. And, if doing so for the stock ECU is enough of an obstacle that you start considering a standalone plugin as a solution, it should become clear that the plugin is quite possibly not the solution you'd hope it to be. It would just lead to more of the same type of problem solving work to get it going. In the above paragraph and in my earlier post, the lack of the boost sensor is not critical. It was just used as an example of something that we knew you did not have right, such that the stock ECU would not work. I took that as an indicator of a reasonable probability that there were other related problems hiding there.
×
×
  • Create New...