Jump to content
SAU Community

98 rb25det neo ac compressor hose connections

JC71

By JC71,
in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)

 Share

Recommended Posts

JC71 Community Regular

JC71

Posted
Posted (edited)

can some one tell me where these two hoses from the ac compressor are suppose to be connected to?

the front one on mine has been plugged with a bolt...

I searched the online manuals etc. but could not locate it

( i realize the pic is of the rb25de and not the det but I could not get a clear picture of mine, googled this image which shows clearly the two lines I am referring to)

thanks

 

s-l1600.jpg

Edited by JC71
JC71 Community Regular

JC71

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

odd, the front hose on mine has been cut off short and has a bolt in it with a clamp, the rear one curls under the pass side next to the head, (similar to the one in the picture) and I cant see where it goes....the power steering does appear to be working. any ideas why the front one would be cut and blocked?

Edited by JC71
  • 2 weeks later...
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

OK, I just looked at the photo for the first time.

Those hoses are probably vacuum. Where they go to/from is a mystery to me, as my Neo turbo PS pump does not have that on the pump outlet connection. You'll notice almost any search for "Neo power steering pump" will turn up pictures with out that can and the smaller hoses.

But with a little more effort, you get this. Only respect the answer from Fit_Cow.

 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      spot the stagea

      By Duncan · Posted

      roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • AnimalGarage
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...