Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello,

Has anyone experienced their signal light being constantly on when parking or headlights are on?

 

I'm putting my car back together after painting. I didn't pull out the hole chassis harness.

I hooked up the chassis harness in the bay along with semi-installing a new ecu harness.

 

I put power to the car today to play some musicand check on thing while I worked.

I noticed when I put on the parking lights that the left rear signal was constantly on. I thought for whatever reason. All the signal light needed to be install. The rear left signal did turn off after all the other signal bulbs where installed, but now the other 4 are lit. The left 2 are brighter than the right. I noticed that if u pull out the front left bulb them the left rear turns back on.

Strange.

Hazards work fine. Activating the signal from the stalk works. I unplugged the signal stalk power to see if that may have been the issue. Removed the fuse for the signals and they stay on constant but not blink.

 

I have LED 194/T10 bulbs. They're not switchback.

Things worked as normal before I took thing apart and painted. The only new things I wired were two removed leads to my fuel pump relays.

 

Could it be the stalks? I bumped them plenty while working. Just from today I assessed them good and no flickering from contact on so it's hard to say it's the stalks.

 

The issue somewhere in the chassis harness?

 

 

20240504_205943.jpg

20240504_205949.jpg

Did some more messing around with this issue.

I think the stalk is the problem. i wiggled it around a bit. When i went to put the signal up for a left turn, all the signals blinked lol.

I'm gonna try and clean the tarnish off the copper and see if that works.

this still doesnt explain why the left side/fronts are constant on ACC/On after i pulled the stalk. may be a ground from the stalk thats causing it.

IDKkKkKk. I'll report back

Are you sure you can use LEDs in the indicator lamps? On a car that old? It doesn't work on many old cars because the indicator relay can't cope with the wrong impedance out at the lamp positions and the LEDs will happily light up even with minimal current flowing through the indicator relay.

And when I say "indicator relay" I mean the flasher, not a relay relay.

Beyond that, I would say that you have caused yourself a wiring fault and that you would be well advised to work through the wiring diagram and the actual loom with a multimeter.

  • Like 2
3 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Are you sure you can use LEDs in the indicator lamps? On a car that old? It doesn't work on many old cars because the indicator relay can't cope with the wrong impedance out at the lamp positions and the LEDs will happily light up even with minimal current flowing through the indicator relay.

And when I say "indicator relay" I mean the flasher, not a relay relay.

Beyond that, I would say that you have caused yourself a wiring fault and that you would be well advised to work through the wiring diagram and the actual loom with a multimeter.

I've had these LEDs and a LED EP34 flasher relay in the car since 2020.

No fuses were popped either.

I'll multimeter and clean off the tarnish tomorrow. From how the lights were acting after I diddle the stick make me lean towards a stalk problem.

23 minutes ago, SLVRBAKSLPZ said:

From how the lights were acting after I diddle the stick make me lean towards a stalk problem

That would be a rarity.

You can emulate the function of the stalk just by bridging the appropriate pins in the connector. If you can make it function correctly by doing so, then the wiring etc is OK and it is the stalk.

  • Like 1

SOLVED

 

simple solution.

After wrecking by brain, i ended up jist giggling everything i could.

At one point last week I noticed that the left side signals shut off for a split second. I wasn't sure what triggered it.

I spent time cleaning up wiring, re-wrapping and adding DT connectors to my IC7 stuff.

I bought a new hazard and stalk hoping that would work. The stalk did fix some function issue but not the steady on. Hazard didn't fix it.

I started just tracing everything. Once I got to the engine bay I notice my engine harness was droopy. I started moving it and the signals flickered. Come to find out that the starter + turned off sigmals when it grounded out on a bolt

I have a Wiring Specialties pro harness so I'm not sure if this is specific to it.

So it should work proper once I hook everything up

 

Edited by SLVRBAKSLPZ
On 5/11/2024 at 7:50 PM, GTSBoy said:

That is a dead f**king short of B+ to ground. Scary.

Yeah I'm terrible with understanding wiring. Outside of being given install instructions, I have a hard time deciphering diagrams and terminology.

I have the wiring manual and its all hieroglyphs lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
    • Perhaps the answer is... more jacks!* *proper jacks must be used.  
    • I NEVER think about using a scissor jack unless there is absolutely no other alternative. f**king things are dangerous, annoying and stupid.
×
×
  • Create New...