Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Been poking around on the new to me car. I've determined that I have a Kakimoto exhaust from at least the downpipe back (I haven't confirmed the downpipe yet). It has a catalytic converter. Other than the company branding on the exhaust tip, I can only find one other marking. Behind the cat and under the car is a plate that has the numbers "NF307FP" and "M11111". Unfortunately, the Kakimoto website is written in Japanese and my browser won't translate it. I found that Nengun sells the brand, but my exhaust doesn't look like their current offering. They do indicate that each pipe is custom made, but I assume that's more of an inventory control thing than some sort of special, vehicle specific tuning.

Anyone have a guess about what I have here? I'm getting ready to throw some dollars at tuning this car, but want to make good decisions. No reason to throw out a perfectly good exhaust system, if this thing will equal a full custom build.

Edited by Kip
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/485518-kakimoto-exhaust-what-do-i-have/
Share on other sites

It really doesn't matter much who made it, unless if is obviously poorly routed or restrictive in a section; what matters is the nominal cross section. For most normal-medium power you go 3" from the cat back for a good combination of free flow and retaining ground clearance. Front and dump pipes are tricker to get in larger sizes and are the most common restriction

Thanks, Duncan. This is good info. The pipe is 3+" in diameter. I assume the cat is the biggest flow impediment right now. Then again, the fiberglass packing came shooting out of the car when I put it on the dyno, so I'm kind of de-catted at this point. I'm going to get under the car tomorrow to change the oil. I'm hoping I can scope out the downpipe and turbos.

1 hour ago, Duncan said:

metallic

More likely ceramic, but yes, possibly metal.

Another factor is that street legal (in Japan) aftermarket exhausts have to meet some noise rules that generally means that a 3" exhaust will likely have a 2 or 2.5" restriction somewhere inside it. If the exhaust has a JASMA tag on it, and hasn't had that restriction found and removed, then, the course of action is obvious.

  • Like 1
1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

Another factor is that street legal (in Japan) aftermarket exhausts have to meet some noise rules that generally means that a 3" exhaust will likely have a 2 or 2.5" restriction somewhere inside it. If the exhaust has a JASMA tag on it, and hasn't had that restriction found and removed, then, the course of action is obvious.

This is a good tip. Two things:

  • Will a JASMA tag literally have the word "JASMA" on it? If not, what does it look like and is there a common place to find it on the exhaust? Nevermind. I found some images.
  • Similar question for the restrictor. Is there a common place it would be located or some sort of indicator that can be seen from the outside? Do I have to drop the exhaust and look around until I stumble on it?
Edited by Kip
New info found

It's usually associated with a muffler. Often in the middle of the muffler, sometimes at an inlet. Not removable by just slipping something out. usually needs butchery (read outright replacement of the muffler).

There's absolutely nothing magic about any Jap exhaust brand. Totally generic. Totally replaceable with anything else that will do the job. I've replaced the centre muffler in mine a couple of times.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They are under bucket shims. Tomei provides a test shim kit and then any measurement of shim required. 
    • I always wondered how you were supposed to buy a set of 24 buckets and somehow magically have every single one of them yield exactly the desired clearance. I would have thought you'd need to assemble a cam with either 12 "sample" or "example" buckets of known top thickness (or a single such sample/example 12 times over!!) measure clearances at every valve, and then do the usual math to work out what the actual "shimness" of each bucket needed to be, before buying the required buckets to make up he thicknesses that you didn't have on hand.
    • I now seem to be limited in power due to my rev limit/hydraulic lifters in my built RB25. I'm looking into converting over to Tomei solid lifters. Question for anyone that has done the conversion. I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  I don't know where I got this idea, as so far I see no mention of this in any of the Tomei documentation. It just states I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
    • I couldn't agree more. I should have started from the get-go with a NEO or solid bucket conversion. I started looking into converting over to solid lifters yesterday. Now for some reason I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  But I see no mention of this on any of the Tomei documentation. It just states that I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
    • BRUH, one of the biggest mistakes of my life..... and i've had plenty ;[)
×
×
  • Create New...