Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It all depends on the condition of the car itself, I paid $15k for mine, with only some minor modifications.

Not to mention I spent another $2k getting a few things done to it before it was back on the road. (Tyres, brakes, control arms, bushes etc)

Your best bet is to get a mechanic to check it out, to earn a few bargaining chips and try bringing the price down that way.

Having said that though, I've seen R32 GTS-4 sell for more than $20k in almost mint condition, with extremely low ks and few modifications.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/48586-93-r32-gts4-price/#findComment-981554
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks Guy's, now I feel really great having paid $33K for mine :Oops:

BUT, I dont regret it, cause I bought it in '97 when a R32 GTR was $60K.

If you buy that GTS4 for $17K and have as much enjoyment as I have had out of mine seven years later it will have been well worth it. :)

Dont get too hung up on price, especially if its in great condition and you intend to look after it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/48586-93-r32-gts4-price/#findComment-989145
Share on other sites

The r32's are definatly my favourite. I had a lot of problems finding a good one when I was looking and ended up getting a 33 instead. Look out for rust too as it's becoming an issue and make sure it's exactly what you want for 17grand....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/48586-93-r32-gts4-price/#findComment-989423
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeh I think i'll message an old contact i had for ages that manages his own tyre shop now.. n tell him what i want n work with him before ordering..  Got this 17x9 +30 Driftteks on 245/45/17 PSR Drag Radials on the rear.. They fit well - for your reference in future - Rear guards  have been lipped in & minimal to non flaring of the rear Gaurds.    
    • If only it were that easy! I also needed to remove seats, shocks, brake calipers, send my car through a fence, and use measuring and ended up guessing because I didn't remove seats, shocks and brake calipers. It can be hard sometimes Can be a little more complex than 'just measure' if you want to truly measure the entire wheel through all of it's suspension travel. But if you aren't going for every last mm then yeah, you can check the space you currently have and guesstimate.
    • If you own a car, and it has wheels on it, and you know the offset of those wheels, and you have a measuring device, you have everything you need to work out if other wheels will fit.
    • Will this fit? but they are staggered set - RAYS 57DR SEMI GLOSS BLACK 18x8.5 +37 | 18x9.5 +38 5-114.3 STAGGERED SET   or If no go could just get a set 4's wheels of 18x8.5 +37 5-114.3 - would i run 8.5's 235s up front n 245's at the back if I do?   Thanks.        
    • Put a clamp on your return line. I have a feeling it's sucking air, and introducing bubbles to your fuel. With a lot of fuel, less problematic. I'd honestly be redoing all the lines in the tank and clamps on everything.   Also, you've given two different answers to the same question: Asked if being followed by the police you could get down to use the whole tank, you said yes you could, so long as you keep off boost. However, you then followed this up that free revving, it would also cause the issues. I'm doubting free revving is enough to make any noticeable boost on what is likely a decent sized turbo.   So now I have to ask, can you actually drive it lightly and use all the fuel, or does it break up even free revving? Also, have you put a fuel pressure gauge on it? Can you hear the pump change noise at all when you're having this issue?
×
×
  • Create New...