Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I had some time over the last week  and decided to test if block filler will hold the blocks shape similar to a torque plate after the head has been removed. 1, 3 and 5 were measured at 9 points each before and after. MY goal was to see how much impact a torque plate has on the shape of the bore.

The first set of measurements were taken with the main girdle and head off with no filler. The block was then filled with grout up to the water pump (half fill) and the girdle and head were torqued to spec. The block sat leveled for 7 days and was disassembled. The second set of measurements were then taken.

Results are presented as the delta between the original and new value. All values in the PowerPoint are presented in inches because America. The largest changes were 0.0035 in or 0.0889 mm between cylinders 3 and 5. There may have been even greater changes if the block was filled to the top with grout.

I hope this information is useful and I'm curious to hear what you guys think.

 

 

spacer.png

 

Notes:

My block had the most wear in cylinders 3 and 4. Due to the amount of change in 3, I measured 2, 4 and 6 separately. 4 was also all over the place. 6 was similar to 1. They were not included to keep the test objective.

 

 

  • Like 1

I think you'll find we're confused about what you were trying to do and how you were doing it.

I would have thought that block rigidity was something you measured while loading the block in beam or in torsion, and that you would do so before and after grout filling, to see if putting material in there created a "composite" construction with the expected rigidity increase. Notwithstanding that the true function of grout is less about gross rigidity than local (ie preventing bore deflection/splitting and tying the bores to the main bearing locations a little better, etc etc).

It is nearly impossible to follow your description of what you've done without closing ones eyes and making "aliens" hand shapes in front of oneself to try to follow the manipulations you've made.

It's still unclear to me what you were trying to prove.

  • Like 1

I didnt present too many conclusions because I wanted your opinions and feedback based on your own experiences.

I don't know the exact material, but it is similar to concrete and therfor only has valuable strength in compression. The forces on the set material once the head is removed would mostly be in compression since the grout wants to retain its shape and the block wants to return to its relaxed state since it's still within the elastic region. The grout would theoretically make the block more rigid. The exact amount would take a better setup on my end.

Thought experiment: Instead of aliens, twist your favorite fleshlite. Now fill it with grout and allow it to sit for a week. Now try to twist it again. Observe what you see. Now get your other one and blow into it. Observe what you see. Now put it into a can and fill the space between your fleshlite and the can. After it sets blow into it. Less movement in torsion and less expansion i hope. 

 

OK. But what about parts of the block that, when assembled, were twisted into a position that pushed into the void space, which, when disassembled, then released that force and opened back up, thus putting the grout into tension? Would effectively just pull the cast iron off the grout at the interface, leaving a tiny void and benefitting not much at all.

Swings, and roundabouts. It's like putting something tiny into the fleshlight and finding out you needed a smaller one, to perhaps follow your area of expertise.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...