Jump to content
SAU Community

Speedo and odometer reading super slow r34gtt a/t

VicFlo
 Share

Recommended Posts

VicFlo Newbie

VicFlo

Posted
Posted

HI, Ive got an r34 gtt sedan A/T. The instrument cluster went out and I replaced it with another A/T everything visually looks the same and all the gauges work now with the exception of the speedometer and odometer. The speedo will stay pinned at zero until I'm going about 55kmh and then it'll say Im going about 5kmh. my odometer seems to be tracking at about a 1/10 of what it should. If I go 1km it'll say I've only gone 0.01. Appreciate any and all help. Ive tried searching through the forums reddit and a local fb group. The only info I think I've found is that some cars didnt come equipped with TCS (mind is) and the clusters may be different between those? I've also installed a brand new VSS and no joy obviously. TIA. 

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Yes, the speed sensors are quite different between NA and turbo. Completely different waveform. I'm surprised it's picking up any pulses at all if it is the wrong one.

As to the original problem... "the instrument cluster went out". What does that mean? What died and how? Is there any hope that you could transplant teh speedo head from that into the new one?

  • Like 1
VicFlo Newbie

VicFlo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

By went out the old cluster completely died first it was the odo lcd then the gauges stopped working, Nissan said the board/chip went bad. I then ordered a used one off of amazon. I can transplant the speedo gauge itself I still have the old bad cluster. in fact I am trying to visually inspect to see any differences between the two. The back of the speedos themselves have a different number on the top one has a 5 the other has a 6 i believe printed at the top and the original motor looked a bit larger. On the board itself behind the speedo I saw a few differences looks like towards the bottom the my original board didn't have a resistor at R3. The SMD chip in the top right has some different numbers on it (maybe I can swap these) and the resistor at r16 might be different colors.

So the new cluster came from a non turbo but it did have TCS the ebay seller said. hopefully these images will show: 

New clusterspacer.png broken clusterspacer.png

 

I will try to transplant just the speedo first.

VicFlo Newbie

VicFlo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So I'm confident in saying its TCS thing. My new cluster I never realized didn't even have bulbs in the TCS or Slip slots. Shining a light through the backside that black plate has nothing for it, unlike my original cluster. Looking at the service manual the only thing that stands out is TCS in relation to the vehicle speed, it has nothing to do with turbos. It sadly looks like I may just need to get the appropriate cluster.

pacman_1219 Rookie

pacman_1219

Posted
Posted

Can confirm I've had that speedo issue on my GTT. Cluster was from an NA car, all other gauges worked perfectly except the speedo.

Get a cluster from a turbo and it should be ok. You can actually swap out the individual gauges on the cluster which I thought is pretty neat.

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Roy
      Ben's R32 Gtst Build

      By Roy · Posted

      Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • GTSBoy
      Another little story of weird shit happening

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • MBS206
      Another little story of weird shit happening

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Shizu
      Returning after a long time!

      By Shizu · Posted

      Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
    • dbm7
      Looking for a part number for this part here

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Did some FASTing ...got the impression that the actual part# was a moot point ; seems all of these hardlines for coolant are discontinued/NLA... like, I take it you're after the hardline that bolts onto to the manifold...that's NLA according to amayama & nengun .... ...just to clear up some confusion, they typically mounted the AAC valve to the intake manifold somewhere near a coolant passage, so the body of the valve heats up & holds it open when engine's up to temp - no coolant flows through the valve, it's a mechanical, thermal connection.
×
×
  • Create New...