Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all have owned my series 1 r33 gtst for 3 years. When I picked it up it wasn't running, but have slowly fixed things during those years. Finally starting to get more time for my r33, currently in the process of sorting rwc and club rego. 

I have no real mechanical experience so ive just been learning through youtube and these forums. Just hoping to restore this car and learn alot from everyone in the process

  • Like 5
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/486360-new-r33-owner/
Share on other sites

My goals for it atm are to get it registered, respray and some mild power gains eventually...

I picked up the car from an elderly gentleman near the border of NSW and VIC, its honestly a bit rough and looks like its been driven on a farm (because there was so much dirt underneath). Last week I dropped the subframe and emptied the old fuel out + added a new fuel pump (think the old one went bad from old fuel). Now I'm onto fixing a coolant leak at the rear of the engine + adding a new radiator as the old one is corroded. After that i have a new bumper, coils (as the old were leaking) and lots more

e0a82f94-7821-4623-879d-b7d2893a0f7f.jpg

d61b5d2e-c0bd-47fe-9dec-acae5fe94159.jpg

5f9fc660-85f8-4d7c-b555-bef3da732728.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/486360-new-r33-owner/#findComment-8002037
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Its also worth mentioning that 30 years after it left the factory and god knows how many missed oil changes since, there is every possibility that one or more lifters are ticking because they are sticky/gummed up. To resolve that you need to pull the cams then pull each lifter, disassemble, clean, reassemble, soak in oil and re-install, and they should come up good as new.
    • What air filter are you running? Is it a panel filter in the stock air box, or a pod filter? Is the air filter the type that is oiled?   If you unplug the IACV, what rpm does the engine idle at?
    • Reading through the engine service manual their advice is do a cylinder balance test. Unplug one injector at a time and see if the idle drops a consistent RPM. You can also do this using a Consult cable which is easier. They also call for unplugging the power transistor, then with the engine off and the fuel rail unhooked from the manifold verifying that you have good fuel flow (even injection, no dripping/leaks, etc) when you twist the CAS by hand. Also verify the spark by pulling the spark plugs and allowing the plugs to ground and turning the CAS by hand. I would also start doing the sensor checks and idle valve checks in service manual. Make sure the MAF tests reasonably, the intake air regulator is sane, etc. You may have to get new spark plugs.
    • This sounds very old of me, however since buying the Tiguan shit box, my view on shit boxes have changed.
    • I've looked up the parts number (41011AL501). It's around $700 OEM. Usually our Infiniti G35 here in Canada have interchangeable parts with my Stagea but the parts number are not the same. I have looked around and it seems the JDM 2005 V35 Skyline (which is the same as our G35) has the same caliper but I cannot confirm. And I can't find a repair kit. The inner brake pads drags on the rotor, seems to be rusty piston. Thanks for the info by the way
×
×
  • Create New...