Jump to content
SAU Community

200rwkw possible with these mods?

skyline_man

By skyline_man,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

skyline_man Enthusiast

skyline_man

Posted
Posted

got my car tuned by Tim Possingham from Adelaide's Tilbrook dyno centre the other day. My car is a 1996 GTST. Anyway he showed me the print out which shows that my car is putting out 200rwkw at only 10.5pounds of boost. Is this possible?

The mods to my car include:

-power FC

-front mount intercooler

-3" apexi N1 exhaust turbo back

-K&N air filter

-blitz sbc-id electronic boost controller

He also didn't install any fuel pressure regulator.

Anyway, i'm kinda sus cos the car doesn't seem to feel that much more powerful then before when i didn't have it tuned.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/48782-200rwkw-possible-with-these-mods/
Share on other sites
jager Community Regular

jager

Posted
Posted

that could have been your peak power, but maybe your power band isn't as nice to you as your peak

i had a 187rwkw

then added 3" dump + hi-fow cat + 3.5" stainless steel intake unichip

i got 182 rwkw

lost 5 rwkw at the peak but more power band is completely diff engine is work no where near as hard as before, and i can get up to speed alot quicker, but peak isn't as much and my fuel comsumption changed from 250 ks to a tank to 400ks, its all in the tune

my 2c

Nozila Grand Master

Nozila

Posted
Posted

i havent had my car dynoed or tuned before and im soon to have a dump/front installed to my current mods which are only cat back and pod. Roughly how much rwkw's will it have after the exhaust is completed. I was told quite a while ago by rpm when i was looking a exhaust that they could extract approx. 200 rwkws with pod, tune and full exhaust. is this possible?

Zahos Mentor

Zahos

Posted
Posted
that could have been your peak power, but maybe your power band isn't as nice to you as your peak

Maybe you should see my power curve before commenting on it....

Steve-SST, My point was that dyno figures dont really mean that much IMHO... To me it was important to sort out the A/F ratios and from that obtain a nice power curve. I dont have a scanner sorry to post it up, but it was tuned my ICE performance in cheltenham on a dyno dynamics dynometer.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • MBS206
      Starting again

      By MBS206 · Posted

      The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
    • MBS206
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Just like in being 14mm too small (296mm) makes it not fit, being 14mm too big (324mm) it also won't fit. You want to find the correct rotor.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      @GTSBoy Ok so that was the shops problem...they showed R33 rotors on R34 page and i did not know 296 do not fit(and are for R33) Yes i bought "kit" with rotors and pads. Pads are ok(i have GTT calipers front and rear). They have some 324mm but no 310mm. So i dont know if they would fit. I have 17inch LMGT4s So another question. Can i fit those in the rear or they are just "too" big for that?
×
×
  • Create New...