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Hey ppls,

I'm trying to fit a spiggot bush to the crank of my RB30 bottom end.

Inside the crank there is a lip that is around 10mm in, it steps down by around .5 of a mm.

The problem is the spiggot bush is slightly larger than the initial opening.

Not by much but just enough, maybe .5 of a mm?!?.

I had done a bit of a search and it appears some machine the spiggot bush down to fit but the problem with that is once it sits where it is supposed to be it will be too loose. It appears the RB20/25 cranks have the same lip steop down setup.

Any idea's any one?

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There appears to be an auto spiggot bush in the end of the crank.

Where this ends is where the lip step down is.

So when I remove the auto spiggot bush there will be a large hole that steps up. Where it steps up is where I have to fit the manual spiggot bush as obviously where the auto spiggot bush was the hole is too big.

I think. :)

The auto spigot is a plate pressed onto the end of the crank with a 'projection' to support the torque converter. You'll see that the plate steps down to the crank proper just before the crank seal. It's just a matter of levering the plate off the crank, although sometimes that can take a bit of effort. Once the plate is off, pressing in the manual spigot bush should be simple.

  • 3 months later...
If you can't get the auto spiggot out with grease & a 14mm socket I would say your hand shake is a little on the :hippy: side.

 

:)

ha, nice one. so you used the grease thing.

doesnt work in my case as its an sr20 auto and the bush sits almost flush the the collar so grease cant really get under it at all.

you need a spiggot bearing puller, this will pull that sleeve out.

there is another option. But you have to be really careful. Get a die grinder with a carbide bur. you can gently machine a section away until it is thin enough to break....but you must be very careful so you don't score the crank.

The grease thing won't work in that case, really only good for the manual one.

Another way would be to take it to your local exhaust shop and get one of the guys to tack a piece of wire to the sleeve. then you can pull it out. also the heat from the weld will help to free it up but won't be anywhere near enough to damage the crank...just make sure the guy knows what he is doing and explain it thoroughly first.

RowdyR32 ground it out with a die-grinder on my RB20DET.

It did the job without ill-effect, cut through it, squeez it, and lever it out. Sure it leaves a bit of a mark on the housing but grind the worst of the sharp dags smooth and clean up all the fillings.

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