Jump to content
SAU Community

Install of Spiggot Bush! HELP!

Cubes

By Cubes,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

Hey ppls,

I'm trying to fit a spiggot bush to the crank of my RB30 bottom end.

Inside the crank there is a lip that is around 10mm in, it steps down by around .5 of a mm.

The problem is the spiggot bush is slightly larger than the initial opening.

Not by much but just enough, maybe .5 of a mm?!?.

I had done a bit of a search and it appears some machine the spiggot bush down to fit but the problem with that is once it sits where it is supposed to be it will be too loose. It appears the RB20/25 cranks have the same lip steop down setup.

Any idea's any one?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/48850-install-of-spiggot-bush-help/
Share on other sites
Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
  • Author
Posted

There appears to be an auto spiggot bush in the end of the crank.

Where this ends is where the lip step down is.

So when I remove the auto spiggot bush there will be a large hole that steps up. Where it steps up is where I have to fit the manual spiggot bush as obviously where the auto spiggot bush was the hole is too big.

I think. :)

SteveL Mentor

SteveL

Posted
Posted

The auto spigot is a plate pressed onto the end of the crank with a 'projection' to support the torque converter. You'll see that the plate steps down to the crank proper just before the crank seal. It's just a matter of levering the plate off the crank, although sometimes that can take a bit of effort. Once the plate is off, pressing in the manual spigot bush should be simple.

  • 3 months later...
neergnevets Community Regular

neergnevets

Posted
Posted
If you can't get the auto spiggot out with grease & a 14mm socket I would say your hand shake is a little on the :hippy: side.

 

:)

ha, nice one. so you used the grease thing.

doesnt work in my case as its an sr20 auto and the bush sits almost flush the the collar so grease cant really get under it at all.

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

you need a spiggot bearing puller, this will pull that sleeve out.

there is another option. But you have to be really careful. Get a die grinder with a carbide bur. you can gently machine a section away until it is thin enough to break....but you must be very careful so you don't score the crank.

The grease thing won't work in that case, really only good for the manual one.

Another way would be to take it to your local exhaust shop and get one of the guys to tack a piece of wire to the sleeve. then you can pull it out. also the heat from the weld will help to free it up but won't be anywhere near enough to damage the crank...just make sure the guy knows what he is doing and explain it thoroughly first.

Oosh Veteran

Oosh

Posted
Posted

RowdyR32 ground it out with a die-grinder on my RB20DET.

It did the job without ill-effect, cut through it, squeez it, and lever it out. Sure it leaves a bit of a mark on the housing but grind the worst of the sharp dags smooth and clean up all the fillings.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 04-LOOX
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By 04-LOOX · Posted

      Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...