Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well, I have had it in for almost a week now.

Anyone got any hints on what I can do to it before I take it to the tuner.

The whole "It will detonate its ass off" is one big myth.

I put 95 Ron Premium in my car (best we have in Mackay) and run it, and I get 5% knock out of 100% which is most likely just engine movement in the bay.

Anyways, anything I should look at? That is simple? I am a complete noob to tuning and don't want to blow my car up.

I have -

3 Inch Split Stainless Dump and Front pipe all in one (custom by mate)

3 - 4 Inch Through the high flow cat and to the cannon

FMIC

Stainless Steel Pipe to Pod Filter and turbo

Blowoff Valve is plumbed back

Apexi AVCR at 10PSI

Car runs good, but sounds like its running rich as. Not sure though.

dont forget the commander is only picking up what the sensor tells it to

check its working perfectly

not saying its not, but after a hard fang on 98 octane i get anywhere between 10-30 knock on the commander, my knock sensor is working perfectly and my engine is very healthy

food for thought :P

dont forget the commander is only picking up what the sensor tells it to  

check its working perfectly

not saying its not, but after a hard fang on 98 octane i get anywhere between 10-30 knock on the commander, my knock sensor is working perfectly and my engine is very healthy

food for thought :P

well, I put BP 95 Ron in and it knocked up to about 30%

Then put Shell 95 in and it only knocked to about 10%

Got any hints for a little self very basic tuning?

well... Removed the Blowoff valve return hose and blocked it up, and the car started blowing heaps of black smoke (running mega rich) and then when I put it back on, the car wouldn't rev any higher than 2000 rpm before stalling.

Had to reset the PowerFC and idle tune it again. Car runs fine again.

Can someone explain why it does this, and tell me a work around this blow off valve misshap?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
×
×
  • Create New...