Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Alright here I go. I own a 1983 e30. The engine is on its way out, the cylinders were down on pressure and a couple of other little things. the car is currently off the road. I believe the car to be straight. There is no rust, the owner before me was an enthusiast so the car is in excellent condition.

Instead of getting a new car I thought I would try and fix the one I have. And make a machine out of it at the same time. It was suggested that I put a SR20 in it. I have been looking at getting a sr20 front cut. But i thought if i could why not try a RB20 or even better a RB25....

I have done a bit of research and have found (i hope) that its not that hard to do, (with the sr20 det anyway) gearbox lines up with the hole and everything, Nissan nose needs to be welded onto tail shaft, the main problem is that the exhaust is on the wrong side, which you cant do anything about. Now obviosly there would be more involved with the 6cyl conversion

Just wondering if anyone has done or seen done a similar engine swap, and any other problems ect. or a contact to someone who has, (brisbne area)

All suggestions/ help is greatly appreciated

Thanks

*i know nobody likes/ takes seriously, newbies.... but i am fully serious about this and genuinly need some advice/help

thanks again

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/49206-bmw-engine-conversion/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

cool, thanks heaps for that.

i have been told that the engine mounts are not that hard to fabricate.

but i wouldnt know for sure.

hmmmm didnt think about the rotor.... but i think i rather not do a rotory

though (nothing against them)

would there be any major benifits getting the rb25 over the sr20? when it

comes to mods etc

I personally don't like the idea of a 4cyl in the BMW, I am used to and prefer the sound of a nice tuned sounding 6cyl coming from them.... one of my mates has a 3-series with a 1JZGTE in it putting out 218kw @ wheels and that goes plenty well ;)

a mate of mine had an E30 323i JPS, with the 2.3L it would break CV joints sometimes when dropping the clutch at high RPM.

Then he put the 2.5 out of a 325is and he broke his CVs almost every week.

Also there was a black E30 with an SR20 in it ,on one of the Serious Performance vidoes and he had the same problem he actually broke one while taking off on the video.

So i would say while your modding everything upgrade your rear CV joints as well because its a pain in the ass grettin the car towed everytime you break a CV.

"DO IT ONCE AND DO IT RIGHT" best adivce ive ever been given

good luck with the conversion

my uncle and i might be doing the same to his old BMW 2002 ;)

I personally don't like the idea of a 4cyl in the BMW, I am used to and prefer the sound of a nice tuned sounding 6cyl coming from them.... one of my mates has a 3-series with a 1JZGTE in it putting out 218kw @ wheels and that goes plenty well :)

what about the E30 M3? they were 4 bangers ;)

oh yea and so were the 2002 tti 4cyl, single cam, turbo.

i see, thanks 2guup2, and yes when i do do the conversion i intend to do it properly! no shortcuts.

he he.. the old 2002, that would be a cool car to do a transplant in

bmw 4cyl arent that great with the exception of a few:

the s14 m3 (1986 to 1991) engine have roughly 200 bhp from factory (2 - 2.3L (i think) 4cyl) , there was another version(1990), with up to 240. they are an awesome 4cyl n/a engine i would put one of those in if i thought i could get one cheap and i knew i could get parts that were redilly avaliable... but yes the 6s are a lot better

lithium: do you know any major/ minor problems you friend had with his conversion?

I had an E30 323i with a 2.9L conversion. Blew two diffs, one gearbox, no CVs. Go figure.

Torque monster.

Build a 2.9 with an GT28 hanging off the side...

Block and head from E30 325i, E30 323i rods, custom overbore pistons (sorry can't remember the exact size), crank from E36 328i.

I love 2002tii... my old man and I restored one about 10 years ago :(

Here piccy :(

once we get this Mercedes 230SL out of the shop we are starting on the 2002

its been in the build for about 8 years my uncle has owned it for about 15.

Might do a full report and get pics of the build up on my site if things go to plan.

my mate has the 2.5L in an E30 -- soon to go turbo, motor has just been rebuilt due to huge Cam wear! goes alright with just the 2.5L bottom end - 2.3L head and Lotus forged pistons! wierd combo but when the turbo goes on should be quick! only thing with these cars is lack of room down the car for exhausts.. 3inch would scrape out big time!

only thing to watch that i know of with these things is the rubber mount from gear box to tail shaft!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I hope it's actually possible. This is a write off in insurance world.
    • Yup. 2-way with shallow ramp angles. Still works.
    • That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
×
×
  • Create New...