Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have had conflicting opinions from different tuners as to the recommended run-in procedure for a freshly rebuilt RB26:-

1. bed in rings on a dyno, then light tune & run-in over 5000klms

2. no dyno, lock Power FC at 4500rpm & run in on street over 3000klms

Both agreed on run-in oil, low boost etc however number 2 said a dyno is not a good option first up - any ideas!?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/49284-bedding-in-rings-recommended-option/
Share on other sites

my opinion is number one, since on the dyno you can load up the engine as much as you want (and rev it as high or low as you want at that load). i know people who have done this and had no trouble. some people go to the trouble of putting a lot of weight on their car (towing etc) so they can increase the load to bed rings in - but a full load run through 2nd gear even to 4000rpm is probably hard to do, especially without speeding.

however this is just my opinion and i've never rebuilt an engine myself.

Just take it easy for the first 3 - 6 thousand k's always changing RPM, when first start is done drive for a bit at different revs then load it up a hill with your brakes on a couple of times. never drive at a constant rpm and dont rev hard.

You dont want to thrash it with the running in oil becuase its shit oil and will carbonise easier then normal oil causing seal damage on your Turbo.

All the motors we rebuild and some have made over 600HP for more then 2 years have been fine with this method.

BR,

JH

I have had conflicting opinions from different tuners as to the recommended run-in procedure for a freshly rebuilt RB26:-

1. bed in rings on a dyno, then light tune & run-in over 5000klms

2. no dyno, lock Power FC at 4500rpm & run in on street over 3000klms

Both agreed on run-in oil, low boost etc however number 2 said a dyno is not a good option first up - any ideas!?

oh and another thing have your tune spot on so your not using to much fuel as to not 'petrol wash your bores'

*yeah i know this can happen at any time its just a warning for somebody who has just invested in a rebuild*

BR,

JH

Just take it easy for the first 3 - 6 thousand k's always changing RPM,  when first start is done drive for a bit at different revs then load it up a hill with your brakes on a couple of times. never drive at a constant rpm and dont rev hard.

You dont want to thrash it with the running in oil becuase its shit oil and will carbonise easier then normal oil causing seal damage on your Turbo.

All the motors we rebuild and some have made over 600HP for more then 2 years have been fine with this method.

BR,

JH

Mobil1 synthetic in it to start, run it in on the dyno and tune it up

Drive it for a 1000km's and change the oil.

if all looks good dont worry, and those 1000km's dont have to be ***** km's underload up hills and all that crap.

Just get out there and enjoy it. After the first 1000 go crazy.

Mobil1 synthetic in it to start, run it in on the dyno and tune it up

Drive it for a 1000km's and change the oil.

if all looks good dont worry, and those 1000km's dont have to be ***** km's underload up hills and all that crap.

Just get out there and enjoy it. After the first 1000 go crazy.

Complete opposite of what you should do... synthetic + brand new engine = dead engine before too long

I have had conflicting opinions from different tuners as to the recommended run-in procedure for a freshly rebuilt RB26:-

1. bed in rings on a dyno, then light tune & run-in over 5000klms

2. no dyno, lock Power FC at 4500rpm & run in on street over 3000klms

Both agreed on run-in oil, low boost etc however number 2 said a dyno is not a good option first up - any ideas!?

my motor has just recently been built...ive got 1200kms on the clock...within this ive had 3 dyno tunes with full boost and a run at wsid......i had the same problem in deciding ....but what i feel is very important is dont use to thin of an oil to run it in....i was a bit hesistant to open her up in the first 300kms but what i did was gave it a tune to 6000rpm...she responded well.......it is also very important that ur mixtures arent too rich (mine is 12 flat) as the extra fuel will glaze the bores.....once u feel confident open her up... :headspin: :headspin:

Complete opposite of what you should do... synthetic + brand new engine = dead engine before too long

i had no doubt no-one would be able to accept that.

but ask the major manufacturers what tehy use... i think you'll find its synthetic.

Dont see the holen V6 dying before too long

Not dead engine you just wont bed the rings in an she'll burn oil.. Not blue smoke out the back either you will just be down on oil all the time..

*The above depending on how bad the rings have not bedded in.*

I give a safe 300 - 500kmhs then open her up

BR,

JH

i had no doubt no-one would be able to accept that.

but ask the major manufacturers what tehy use... i think you'll find its synthetic.

Dont see the holen V6 dying before too long

none of the motors ive seen here in Vic are blowing oil, and lots have been running for years.

and some of these motors are cracking 400+awkw all-day everday in GTRs that regulary get flogged around the local circuits. Nothing im going to argue with at all.

each to thier own on this issue.. its just like BOV or no BOV.

I ran mine in with synthetic. It also had a whole load of power runs as its "run-in". Sorry but all this bullshit people speak about run in is garbage, my motor was run in at full ball with a synth oil and about 4000k later its not burning oil and running like a psycho.

BTW this isnt an attempt to argue i couldnt give two ****s whether anyone believes me / wants to argue or whatever just thought it might help someone.

raist60,

I'd agree that an engine need not burn oil and run poorly if run in on synthetic if run in hard. However give me the same engine and mineral oil run in and I'll show you a motor with better compression and power every time (not to mention how much longer it's rings are going to last). The object is to get the rings to 'bite' nicely into the honed surface (a good surface hone is critical also). Synthetic oil like mobile 1 is so good at reducing the friction so it's never going to allow the kind of wear a 'run in' mineral oil will.

I ran mine in with synthetic. It also had a whole load of power runs as its "run-in". Sorry but all this bullshit people speak about run in is garbage, my motor was run in at full ball with a synth oil and about 4000k later its not burning oil and running like a psycho.

BTW this isnt an attempt to argue i couldnt give two ****s whether anyone believes me / wants to argue or whatever just thought it might help someone.

Ya, same from what ive seen, but with motors well over 20thou km's on em.

Nothing wrong with em yet.

When is the actual point when the rings bed just to add to the thread :)

Bl4cK32 No, but ill have to pay for my own, and considering it'll be money outta my pocket if its stuffed would kinda make sure that how mine is being done... is going to be a way that works.

but it doesnt worry holden or ford, so it doesnt worry me either

who has ever bought a brand new car and had to dump the oil at 1000 or whateva cause mineral or running in oil is used from the factory in your new car, synthetic straight up, why make your engine "wear in" ? just out of interest, buy a brand new porsche, mercedes HSV and see whats in it.... mobil 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...