Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone,

Looking for an R32 (93 or upwards preferred)

- Needs to be AUTO

- NON TURBO

- Decent paint/interior

- Stock if possible, although i really dont mind if a few things have been done.

Price is open at this stage (within reason obviously)

Wondering if anyone has one or knows a dealer/imported that could get their hands on one?

Thanks

Hayden

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/49333-looking-for-a-car-need-some-help/
Share on other sites

May be difficult as I don't think you can import the non turbos anymore other than 1989. And when they were being imported, hardly would have been on the desireable list.

Not many around.. do you really want a n/a 2.0L rb20e? -> they are meant to be as slow as dogs. Might get beaten by Excels even.. lol

Oz.. i had a look through and couldnt see anything... if you happen to come across the thread can you post the link. Sounds interesting.

SKA.. Thats right, Miss Shae needs a new ride! Sadly her 85 Corolla is on its last legs. Which also answers predators question, i dont mind if its slow. As its for my gf, i dont want to put her in anything too powerful till she can learn to handle it properly.

Dan: No comment :-p

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...