Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Gday,

Was driving in a car that was detonating the other day and wanted to know -

When an engine pings, is it cumulative damage or will it one day go bang?

I'm just wondering specifically is if a cars been pinging - is the engine dead or can I ya still drive it and have trouble free motoring?

Are there any tests that can be done by professionals to tell if an engine or turbo has been damaged by leaning out?

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/49581-safe-pinging-and-detonation/
Share on other sites

From memory, you can get what they call a boroscope (as in bore-o-scope) - it's like an endoscope or gastroscope in principle, they put it down the spark plug hole and can look around the cylinder without taking the head off. Good luck finding a shop that has one though! They are around, but I bet they're rare as...

pinging doesn't mean that your car is gonig to do it all the time.

Its can be

* Bad Fuel

* Ignition timing too advanced

* Bad tune

Get someone to tune the car and you'll be right.

Just because the car is pinging, doesn't mean it has a "disease" and with ping all the time. Just recitfy the problem, and get it compression tested to see if any damage was done during the time it pinged (if it was hard and bad detonation)

Is it diagnosable as to how far damage was done by a good tuner?

A leak down test will give a pretty good test. If it has any ring land damage this will show up. That and a bore-o-scope visual check and you will be safe. :)

Pinging is pre detonation of the fuel before the piston reaches tdc. (I hope im right :)) It basically sends a shockwave through the motor. Hence why pistons go....It can be caused by a few different things, like crapola carbon deposits in the combustion chamber too....cant tune it out if that happens....

In this particular example its a combination of too much boost and low-oc petrol.

Thanks for the info guys this helps a great deal !!!

Each one of those posts was excellent in helping me understand.

Great link too.

I realise it's not a disease, I was just wondering if it's worth buyin an engine I know for a fact has been subject to detonating due to overboost and low oc.

Thanks! I think I'll skip the tests and just stay clear.

In this particular example its a combination of too much boost and low-oc petrol.

Thanks for the info guys this helps a great deal !!!

Each one of those posts was excellent in helping me understand.

Great link too.

I realise it's not a disease, I was just wondering if it's worth buyin an engine I know for a fact has been subject to detonating due to overboost and low oc.

Thanks! I think I'll skip the tests and just stay clear.

The testing is neither complex nor expensive. If it means a cheaper total cost for an engine I would do it every time. :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah agreed, you can't assume that shop are they only people who ever had to work on it. It was just a guess on the mods based on how things were done back then. You can check the Air Flow Meters by the part number on their tags, they are likely either Z32 or Nismo ones (both read about the same but the Z32 one is a little larger while nismo is stock size but supports the higher airflow like a Z32). And yes, all that would get you to 450hp / 340kw To tell what is happening with the turbos, you want a photo of the tag on the core, that will say what it was made out of  (they can retain the front and rear covers to make the plumbing easier)  
    • I'm selling my personal race car. 1992 BNR32 Skyline GT-R About eight years ago the engine developed the dreaded low oil pressure problem. I removed it and found the issue. However shortly after I moved half way across the country, moved my work shop, bought a house, got married, then moved my shop again to it's permanent location for the time being. in turn I do not have the time to race this car as it should be. In turn the engine I built for this car will end up in my street car and this car I hope finds a home with someone who can use it to it's full potential. The roll bar was built by Jason Noren Fabricaiton in Pomona California to SCCA and NASA Specs. The car used to compete in redline time attack and global time attack enthusiast class. It also has a fire suppression system.  The car is with me at my workshop in Kyle Texas, USA. Shipping it is no problem, I can personally deliver the car to the port of either Houston or Los Angeles. Any other port depending on where it is may require transport but we can always work that out.   The chassis itself is rust free, rear quarters and under fenders are free of any rust so it's a very solid foundation for anyone who wishes to move forward with it. As posted and at the asking price of $20,000 USD the car includes all of the following;   All OEM Body panels, front fenders, rear bumpers etc.  OEM Nissan Projector headlamps (Pictured N1 lamps were removed) OEM Nismo Side Skirts / Extensions OEM Rear Spats  Front & Rear Subframes are installed car is full roller Rear Subframe has Cusco Camber Arms, Whiteline HICAS Elimination Front Subframe has Whiteline tension rods and whiteline Sway bars w/ endlinks.  Buddy Club N1 Coilovers All chassis wiring and engine wiring is in tact. Attessa System is fully in tact and was functional before engine removal.  BCNR33 GT-R Brembo Brakes F+R with Endless MX72 Plus Pads, DBA Rotors & Stainless Steel Brake lines Billion Racing Radiator Billion Radiator Hoses Fluidyne Engine Oil Cooler Accusump System (trunk Mounted) 5 Speed Transmission w/ Transfer Case F+R Prop-shafts Rear Differential With rear Axles.  Nismo Gauge Cluster Nismo Clutch + Flywheel   Essentially what is needed to make this car running and driving again is as follows: A working Engine, an ECU, and time to put it together. The price posted is or best offer as I am willing to remove some components to accommodate price to a certain extent. If any serious buyer wants full detailed pictures, videos, or any questions I'll be happy to answer them. I believe this car is priced to move quickly considering it's a rust free and very straight chassis but always open to fair negotiation.  I can be contacted via phone or email. (+19517081648) email is [email protected]   
    • So...to my (and my mechanics doing the swap) surprise...the oil pan from NEO engine does not fit 100% and needs to by modified like this: It is not a huge problem but in the future i want a "proper" oil pan. So question is...what different oil pan can i get to fit without any problems and modification? Thanks! 
    • Some more info I found.  These are the last entries Yoshikiyo Fujii made on his blog before he passed away in 2009: http://blog.livedoor.jp/fujii_dynamics/ And finally this is where the workshop was situated:  https://maps.app.goo.gl/HhTPtHzt3WVcBTiEA  
    • shit boxes, kids, and daily drivers are all welcome
×
×
  • Create New...