Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Just buying a cheap runabout now that i've sold my car.

I need something that will get me around while I import either a TT 300zx or r32 GTR in the next few months.

The less money I spend on the runabout the quicker I get my sweet car, so the cheaper the better. I would prefer to keep driving a manual.

I am thinking of the following options:

- Skyline r30/r31

- Datsun 1600

- Swift GTI

- Early 90s Pulsar (boring!)

What kind of r31 should I expect to get, what is the preferred model, how much, what condition etc.

School me up I need to buy a car this week or early next week.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/49727-looking-at-buying-a/
Share on other sites

YES! R31 all the way.. I just started a thread on the r31 actually.. you can see mine which i got for $1500.. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ad.php?p=991332

They're not pretty to look at, but they go, and are actually pretty reasonable on the petrol.

I probably drive around 800km a week and have put about 20,000km on it without any mechanical problems. What many would just write off as a "tired old car".

I got a GX just because it was cheap.. but if you wanted to spend a bit more you could get a GXE.. maybe even a silhouette (LSD, nicer interior). I'd say the cheaper you spend the more likely you'll have to fix niggly things - these don't cost much but if you hate fixing things then pay a bit more.

Nice choice of pic Cillham :P

That car looks even phatter now with a new custom front bar:

30812-med.jpg

pentae, check out the "Cars For Sale" section on the R31 Skyline Club site.

You will find cars from $1000 and up.

I guess it depends if you just want a car to run around in, or if you want to keep it as a daily driver once you get your dream car.

As a daily driver, they are solid, reliable, and easy to source parts for.

If you're not happy with the stock power, there are heaps of things you can do to make it go harder. :P

I disagree with predator, I think they are a very sexy car.

(1,000,000 times sexier than 33's) :P

But each to their own.

I was going to spend ages typing up all the model differences, but it's easier if I just link you to stuff.

Check this out:

R31 Skyline models

and this one,

pictures of the different types of 31's

nah man, r31's are ugly.... :fight!:  

VL are heaps sexier. Don't want to hear your blasphemy, talking ill of the VL!!  

hahahaha

nah each to their own. As long as i'm allowed to judge you all!!!  

 :D

arggh how dare you :D i dont know why people think the r31 is ugly?? i think it was the better looking out of Falcon, Commodore and Magna of the same era.

The falcons didnt look very nice, big motors that didnt make alot of power - made alright torque though, stupid 3 speed autos. Suspension is soft, can be fixed though.

Its getting harder to find a VL in good condition, i like the look of a stock calais, non of the hsv sticker rubbish. They quality is no where near as good as a skyline.

Get the GXE or Silhouette model if your after a manual, the silhouette has almost all the options the TI has. There might be some diff whine. The r31s are very reliable. My mum's r31 was bought in 1992, hardly anything has gone wrong with it over that period of time. We still have it, paint is now all faded needs a few parts replaced as its nearing 200k.

They are a good solid car.. i get a few laughs from my friends when i brag about it against their new falcons and commodores, but i love it :)

Go with the R31!! :D

Hey Guys,

I bought an r31. ;)

It's a 90 model metallic blue Executive.. Yes its an auto.. but damn I found the manual boxes in these things almost too much work, and the trim on the GX's where nowhere near as good as the trim in the executive.

Plus I got a really good deal on the executive, and being a runabout it's a nice change just being able to point it and plant the foot. :(

It's in fantastic condition and has about 165,000kms. Only cost me $3.5k.. A VL In similar condition would have cost about 5.5k.. with the money I save I could easily drop in an rb20det.. Am I right or am I right? Screw VLs.

yeah, good buy.. Auto is fine for most stuff, its pretty smooth and not lacking in power which is the main problems which make autos crap.

They don't have a heap of power of course being an n/a, but handle fairly well and good fun to drive i reckon. In many ways i found it just as entertaining as the r33.. and for a while there i was jumping back from one to another day to day.

I reckon a 1600 or 1200 would be cool and has collector status these days.. but lacks a few creature comforts that say an R31 would have such as power steering, proper aircon, heating, plenty of space, decent lights, etc, etc.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL.... a good amount of people (not all) on that continent seem to know everything and like to measure things in bananas, football fields, statue of liberties instead of the metric system lol.
    • I assume the modules are similar enough, so if you've had no issues I don't see why I would. I have tried to find a wiring diagram for the FPCM / fuel pump circuit, but I can't find it anywhere. Otherwise, I would just do some wire cutting and joining at the FPCM and give the 12 V supplied to the FPCM directly to the pump instead. If you know anyone that could help with wiring diagrams, I'd be very happy  
    • If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
×
×
  • Create New...