Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Just buying a cheap runabout now that i've sold my car.

I need something that will get me around while I import either a TT 300zx or r32 GTR in the next few months.

The less money I spend on the runabout the quicker I get my sweet car, so the cheaper the better. I would prefer to keep driving a manual.

I am thinking of the following options:

- Skyline r30/r31

- Datsun 1600

- Swift GTI

- Early 90s Pulsar (boring!)

What kind of r31 should I expect to get, what is the preferred model, how much, what condition etc.

School me up I need to buy a car this week or early next week.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/49727-looking-at-buying-a/
Share on other sites

YES! R31 all the way.. I just started a thread on the r31 actually.. you can see mine which i got for $1500.. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ad.php?p=991332

They're not pretty to look at, but they go, and are actually pretty reasonable on the petrol.

I probably drive around 800km a week and have put about 20,000km on it without any mechanical problems. What many would just write off as a "tired old car".

I got a GX just because it was cheap.. but if you wanted to spend a bit more you could get a GXE.. maybe even a silhouette (LSD, nicer interior). I'd say the cheaper you spend the more likely you'll have to fix niggly things - these don't cost much but if you hate fixing things then pay a bit more.

Nice choice of pic Cillham :P

That car looks even phatter now with a new custom front bar:

30812-med.jpg

pentae, check out the "Cars For Sale" section on the R31 Skyline Club site.

You will find cars from $1000 and up.

I guess it depends if you just want a car to run around in, or if you want to keep it as a daily driver once you get your dream car.

As a daily driver, they are solid, reliable, and easy to source parts for.

If you're not happy with the stock power, there are heaps of things you can do to make it go harder. :P

I disagree with predator, I think they are a very sexy car.

(1,000,000 times sexier than 33's) :P

But each to their own.

I was going to spend ages typing up all the model differences, but it's easier if I just link you to stuff.

Check this out:

R31 Skyline models

and this one,

pictures of the different types of 31's

nah man, r31's are ugly.... :fight!:  

VL are heaps sexier. Don't want to hear your blasphemy, talking ill of the VL!!  

hahahaha

nah each to their own. As long as i'm allowed to judge you all!!!  

 :D

arggh how dare you :D i dont know why people think the r31 is ugly?? i think it was the better looking out of Falcon, Commodore and Magna of the same era.

The falcons didnt look very nice, big motors that didnt make alot of power - made alright torque though, stupid 3 speed autos. Suspension is soft, can be fixed though.

Its getting harder to find a VL in good condition, i like the look of a stock calais, non of the hsv sticker rubbish. They quality is no where near as good as a skyline.

Get the GXE or Silhouette model if your after a manual, the silhouette has almost all the options the TI has. There might be some diff whine. The r31s are very reliable. My mum's r31 was bought in 1992, hardly anything has gone wrong with it over that period of time. We still have it, paint is now all faded needs a few parts replaced as its nearing 200k.

They are a good solid car.. i get a few laughs from my friends when i brag about it against their new falcons and commodores, but i love it :)

Go with the R31!! :D

Hey Guys,

I bought an r31. ;)

It's a 90 model metallic blue Executive.. Yes its an auto.. but damn I found the manual boxes in these things almost too much work, and the trim on the GX's where nowhere near as good as the trim in the executive.

Plus I got a really good deal on the executive, and being a runabout it's a nice change just being able to point it and plant the foot. :(

It's in fantastic condition and has about 165,000kms. Only cost me $3.5k.. A VL In similar condition would have cost about 5.5k.. with the money I save I could easily drop in an rb20det.. Am I right or am I right? Screw VLs.

yeah, good buy.. Auto is fine for most stuff, its pretty smooth and not lacking in power which is the main problems which make autos crap.

They don't have a heap of power of course being an n/a, but handle fairly well and good fun to drive i reckon. In many ways i found it just as entertaining as the r33.. and for a while there i was jumping back from one to another day to day.

I reckon a 1600 or 1200 would be cool and has collector status these days.. but lacks a few creature comforts that say an R31 would have such as power steering, proper aircon, heating, plenty of space, decent lights, etc, etc.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...