Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I did this on a Dyno so nothing illegal here, 261KPH on the RSM and 260KPH is what the dyno machine read. Hit rev limiter at 7200rpm. Was pretty impressed with the accuracy of the RSM actually. But then again is doesnt take into account wind resistance, tire friction and of course the good old VIC police.

With the RB20 in R32 GSTS, 225 kph into the chase at Bathurst, no brakes or backing off just turn in and hang one. That's from a standing start at the dip on Conrod. Same at Eastern Creek into turn 1, gotta brake there as it was raining. With another 175 rwkw this year, I am looking for 265+ kph into the chase, woooohoo. :rofl:

Datsun 180B 1800cc twin Su's 170kph ran out of puff

Fiat 124cc 1800cc twin cam, twin sidedraught dellorto's 3 on board 190kmph ran out of revs at 7500

Falcon 3.9 injected no mufflers or cat, pod filter 3500 in fifth 200kph no more go

R32 GTS 200rwkw too many mods to list 7000rpm in 5th = @ 240 kph just starting to really pull, revs to 8500 theoretically 290 kmh possibly! lol

305km/h, 5th gear at 7000rpm.... couldn't take it to 8000rpm due to dyno top speed of 300 :D

sweet

Me, around 240 in the R33 and still had accellerating power, but no more road. And 250 in a 400SB chev v8 commodore with a 4 speed and tall diff, had more but ran out of gearing.

-rb25

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did and sync timing with light 
    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
×
×
  • Create New...