Jump to content
SAU Community

Suspension upgrades

michaeljquinn
 Share

Recommended Posts

michaeljquinn Enthusiast

michaeljquinn

Posted
Posted

Very happy with my Stagea RS-Four 1997 model, but others have spoken about

lowering etc...

I hope others haven't cut springs, but after some recommendations

1 - Springs - about 25mm lowered ride height, probably a progressive

spring

2 - Shocks, after firm (not rock hard, eg Tein). Rebuildable, ??

3 - Rollbars - are the stockies ok, given that I'll be firming up the suspension anyway.

4 - Wheels - 235/17 are probably all I need. Would like GTR lookalikes

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/49939-suspension-upgrades/
Share on other sites
Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted

I have found the spring rates to be OK, so I am not going to change them. Plans are for a set of Konis adjustables and lower the bottom spring seat 25 mm via the circlips. Roll is excessive though, so a pair of Whiteline Stabiliser Bars, 24 mm front and 20/22 mm rear will fix that. Then I am going to add some caster, that should help the initial understeer and give the steering some weight, it's way too light for my tastes. :cooldance

Gary1 Community Regular

Gary1

Posted
Posted

Just did the Bilstien shocks and lowered Kings Springs to my Stagea.. Now she is handleing really well.

SK, I did Koni's in my BMW and I don't think I would go there again, the Bilstiens are much better and the price is much the same. Just a thought...

Cheers

Gary

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
Just did the Bilstien shocks and lowered Kings Springs to my Stagea..  Now she is handleing really well.

SK, I did Koni's in my BMW and I don't think I would go there again, the Bilstiens are much better and the price is much the same.  Just a thought...

Cheers

Gary

Bilsteins and BMW's go well togther, zay arrrre both jerman you see. :jk:

I would always use Bilstiens (over Konis) in a car with strut based suspension, their design suites that application. But a double wishbone car is not necessarily the same story. We have Bilsteins in the race DC5 Integra and Konis in the DC2 Integra for that reason. It's horses for courses, pretty apt in the case of a Stagea hey?

What model of Bilstein damper did you use? Did you get any extra circlip grooves cut to adjust the height? I had heard there was difficulting getting the Stagea low enough with the standard Bilstein lower spring seat position.

:D

  • 3 weeks later...
burkey22 Community Regular

burkey22

Posted
Posted

I want to update my suspension. Make it sit a bit lower and handle a bit better. do they make Stagea suspension kits? What ones are recommended? I've seen R33 GTS-T kits. Would one of these fit to my Stagea? I know nothing when it comes to suspension.

Guest

Guest

Posted
Posted

Well for R33 suspension to fit into a Stagea the only difference is the rear top hat, I use my old standard stuff on some R33 coupe's to pass for compliance and all that was changed was the top hat.

Just change the spring's which can be done anywere or get some after market coilovers.

Guest

Guest

Posted
Posted

No mechanic, I just got through RAWS on Soarer and about to do R32 and R34 and I deal with a few others in the industry currently with R33's,Chaser, so on and of course Stagea.

I need to know this stuff for the workshop and I have friends in Japan that help out, so it is more who I know has the answer, I just ask the questions.

I get paid to know the industry in every way so I have to know the little things.

mcnamg Veteran

mcnamg

Posted
Posted

so you work in the auto industry?

what do you do exactly?

sorry to be so nosy but you mention raws a lot so i just figured you for a mechanic or working for a raws or dealer

i guess that you must have a few connections in the industry

mcnamg Veteran

mcnamg

Posted
Posted

zane dont worry i think thats the idea of a forum for us all to swap our ideas and information and to learn from others rather than let all that information in everyones heads go to waste

thanks to everyone who contributes to this section its good to see people who are passionate about their cars

Guest

Guest

Posted
Posted

If it is new order it to suit the Stagea but if second hand email [email protected] and ask Jeff as I think you might be able to get a camber kit for the Stagea and it shoud fit.

You might be able to use your standard rear top hats on the Tein's Jeff will know.

When you lower them with coilovers it gives a bit of rear camber.

mcnamg Veteran

mcnamg

Posted
Posted

just doing my bit helping out and learning too

i must admit my knowledge of cars is not the best. but i have been making an attempt to do most minor mechanical things myself in an effort to know how things work on my car and to help others too by passing on what i have learnt.

just to give you an example i replaced the front brake discs on my wifes ford fairmont the other day it took me three hours to actually do it and about 30 mins on the net looking for how tos. I thought this would be soo hard as i have never really paid any attention to how they go together butit was one of the easiest things i have ever done. I found the information i needed on the ford forums. this just confirms why i think its good for ppl to share information on these forums.

:)

mad wagon Collaborator

mad wagon

Posted
Posted

i know this doesn't help but im contributing anyway. I was lucky enough to run into a jap parts supplier who had a set of used GAB WAGON coilovers height/damper adjustable for stagea that he had for about 8 months and waiting fo someone to do their stag up, $998. I had tears in my eyes when he told me and before i blinked my amex was in my hand. Bloody damn good set-up the boys at s'port jax have made with it, got camber and caster as well, :headspin: .

keep searching and eventually you'll find someone who knows someonelse's friend who's dentist's uncle's wife's cousin has a friend who knows someone in japan or has a stagea :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...