Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok I spoke to a guy in qld how has done this N/a like you want

couple of issues

you use the the rb25 de pistons as they fit and you get 10.5 to 1 compression nice and you need you set up an oil line for the vvt to work when you get closer I'll mail him

read this and you could pm him

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/t41006.html

he reckons its very nice and smooth good luck with it I think it will rock you might get a surprise and find some real power.

meggala

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/500-rb30de-bottom-end/#findComment-12834
Share on other sites

meggala - i was under the impression us rb25de boys wont need the oil feed as we already have it?? or is it that the rb30 block does not have the line where as the rb25 block does? i gotta pm rb30-zed and ask him more...engine management looks tricky too. he's using a delco ecu (from holdens, etc...) don't know how this would affect abs/4wd/auto ect...

sounds interesting.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/500-rb30de-bottom-end/#findComment-12839
Share on other sites

i emailed steve the guy with the rb30de - and the conversion is apparently "quite simple" :(

Hi there Virantha,

I live up in Wollongong NSW, let me know if you are passing one day.

the converion would be simple on your car, but things to keep in mind are :

* the RB30 block is about 40mm taller than your block so you will have to

look at clearance between th throttle body and the bonnet.

* your RB25 block has a internal oil supply to the VVT and the 30 has not,

so you will have to run a external oil line to the passage way in the head

and seel off the lower part of the passage way to stop oil getting back to

the water passage, have a look at the photos of the head at

http:/au.photos.yahoo.com/arkij60

Also are you sure that your compression ratio is 10.5:1 as my RB30 block

with RB25 pistons and head give me 10.5:1, if you are 10.5:1 now and do this

converion with your old pistons it would be about 12:1

I think your motor would be 9:1 now. But ever wat another 500cc makes a big

difference.

The reason i used the Delco system is that it was running my older L28

engine and is a very good system.

What do you think of the RB25 engine?

Steven

[/quote:183cd5627e]

hmmmm - gotta check the clearance for the extra 4cm...

i was under the impression that if you do change the bottom end of an engine - you don't change the compression?? ie it would remain at 10.5?

i don't see why the turbo boys can't do this too! - rb30det :D

this mod would ROCK - and keep the insurers happy...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/500-rb30de-bottom-end/#findComment-12841
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • THERE IS NO IAT SENSOR ON ANY SINGLE TURBO RB. And the one on an RB26 is not for "engine control" - it's really too big and too slow and is only used for over-temp alarming (as far as I can tell). Anyway, you don't have one. You want/need one for the Link, then you need to buy one, find a spot for it, and wire it in. You do know that the stock boost solenoid is not capable of "control", right? It is merely on or off, for the low boost (5 psi) and high boost (7psi), which the ECU enforces mostly based on gear. The stock solenoid is not for PWM control and is not plumbed up in a way to provide it. If you want to control boost properly, then you need a proper MAC valve. And yes, you can wire either of them direct to the ECU. Well, I assume you can - I don't know what the boost solenoid pins on the plug and play Link are capable of. They really should be as capable as any normal Link - but seeing as it is plg and play, it might be limited to stock functionality. Read the doco.   You really do just want to plug stuff together without understanding how it works, right? I can't help you there. I don't know the plug types or pinning on half the stuff you're asking about. If I had to do it I would sit down with the wiring diagrams, the car/looms and a multimeter and work out what is what.
    • Light should be a pressure switch, not a sensor.
    • The pressure light likely has a different sender to a pressure gauge, its been too long for me to remember for sure. Just have a look for another sender down near the oil filter. If you are confident in your rewired pressure sender reading correctly, you can be pretty sure it is just the dash light's sender failing, it is a pretty common thing.
    • It would be nice to see the result, but instagram is a click too far
    • That is a series 1 front end (grill, bumper, headlights). I'm not sure if you are trying to confirm if your whole car is series 1 or just the headlights, but the build date and vin# on the plaque in the engine bay would be the best reference for what it was when it left the factory (noting a lot may have changed over the years)
×
×
  • Create New...